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Thanks! Yeah, I really kind of dig the cyan. I may actually swap out the royal blue in my ESB graflex with a cyan. Love how bright it is. The leather wrap was really easy to do--I just measured...

Thanks! At least I know it's not something I did wrong with the wiring--I'll just make sure I use high quality batteries and keep an extra set or two handy at troops for now. I've had so much trouble...

I did.

Hey, everyone, question for you.

I recently completed my Graflex ESB saber using an Anakin Episode III FX board. To get the switch under the button I wired up a Pololu board. Worked like a charm...

(Right click and "view image" to see full resolution pics).

So some dear friends of ours have a 10-year-old son who, like many boys his age, loves Star Wars. He's been enamored of my sabers for...

Wow, using the scrap board was a stroke of genius. When I did my Empire Strikes Back version which I just finished and posted a few days ago, I ended up just packing the hole with excess electrical...

Someone over at fx-sabers.com suggested that, too. How do you go about doing that, like drill a hole straight down through the shaft of the screw? I'd be afraid of not drilling straight enough and...

Awesome, thanks!

Ebay. It was about $150.



Mine, too. For me it's the second red button in place of the glass lens. I told someone over on FX-Sabers, you just don't want to see the insides. I've not yet...

Hahahaha...nice.

Thanks! I just noticed I had my top half on backwards--the "rabbit ears" should point the other way. Fortunately, an easy fix.

It took me MONTHS to get this done. It's a Luke Skywalker Empire Strikes Back built from a vintage Graflex. After multiple failed efforts to install two different Nano Biscotte soundboards which just...

So the saber worked for 8 hours then conked out again. After multiple different efforts with multiple different configurations on two different NB boards, I gave up and wired up a Force FX board,...

We got it working. Still a bit precarious; I think we need to shorten some wires, as stuff is crammed in way too tight. We both have the inexpensive Trustfire charger, and it seems to have fried...

Sorry, I wanted to try one or two more things before I took this route. What's the best way to handle sending this stuff back for testing? I've got two boards, two battery pack/speaker combos, two...

Yeah, I tried both plugs and am positive the battery is full

When I unplug everything except the speaker and battery pack I get nothing except a rhythmic clicking from the speaker. This is the case with both boards I have (I tried both).

Here's links to hi-res photos (closeups) of the LED and switch. Alas, you can't see the solder joints on the switch as they're covered by heat shrink. However, we have put a tester on the switch and...

Already done. Both cards read fine on my computer.

Sigh. This is really frustrating and depressing. I've spent so much money on this saber. I just want it to work.

Hi, all,

I'm the friend Lendo is referring to. I asked him to post because if the jargon gets technical he's better than I am.

I ordered the board with the MWS setup, as well as an MWS...

Right...presumably I'd want to use a resistor to make sure I don't overload the accents?

I had a thought that I'm wondering if anyone's attempted, or if it'd work.

So you've got a Force FX board, which as we all know is designed to light an LED string in sequence for that up/down...

Hey, all, sorry for the thread necro...didn't want to start a new one for this.

Took me over a month, but I scored a proper 3-cell bottom tube! Will be ordering the hilt / conversion parts on...

That is the adapter and no, that LED is not what you want. That's a Modular Wiring System unit. You want http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-Rebel-Star-P523.aspx or...

How about "Jam?" ;).



I've been considering that. For my other sabers I have not done so--I've simply wrapped the board in electrical tape or heat shrink or sealed it in a static-free bag to...

Thanks; there's a good tutorial on dismantling over at fx-sabers. I just wanted to confirm that all I need to do is shove the electronics in once I get it dismantled. Tim seems to have an LED...