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Hello all!
It's been some time since my last build, and the most saber work I've done in the past few years is swap out a bad speaker in my Saberforge Templar. :rolleyes:

So please take a look at...

Thanks everyone for the feedback!

All I can say is WHOA. This is process is addicting. Now I know how Novastar got into making so many fonts!

Before bed, I went back and made my Activation and...

Hello saber fans, I thought I would post up this project since I'm getting some good results, and it just might inspire some other folks to give it a try.

This saber font is designed for my...

Shortly after my post, I had a thought. Would it not be possible, and fairly simple, to upgrade the design to a tri-Cree GGW and use white for the FoC function? (The X-ed out orange lead in my...

Okay. I added the recharge port, and bridged the switch terminals as per JediCarpet's suggestion. (Thanks for that, by the way. I was looking at that line thinking, 'those wires are going to be...

Ah. I cannot believe i forgot my recharge port! I will make a new diagram. Also, I am using a 3400 mAh battery... I'm not sure why I wrote the other number.

Thanks!

Hello all,

I would appreciate it if you all would look over this diagram for my current project. I am preparing to to assemble.
This is my second saber project.

10900

Thanks!

SW

Wow! I agree with the other folks, the chrome polish looks incredible.

My favorite thing about the build though is the mesh grate inside the section towards the emitter. Very unique, has a very...

Nice work! A fantastic-looking saber.

People's builds continue to stick out their fancy tongues and taunt me to get better. haha

@jedimastergarcia87

Thanks, I love the look of that blade holder too.

I love the Petit Crouton! I still am going to experiment with it; the clash detection is perfect in my build, but I need...

Thanks guys!

Brett:
I like that simple look too! It's daunting to see these awesome creations, but sometimes less is more! A bare-bones hilt that still has its own character is the kind of look...

AMAZING. A wonderful work.

It certainly makes designing a complex hilt seem incredibly daunting. Makes me feel small, but also challenged to try and be even more creative.

Keep it up. Maybe...

After a long period of study, practice, and planning, I present my first lightsaber, which also happens to be an MHS saber.


CRUSADER

I've always loved the Luke ROTJ/Obi-Wan ROTS style hilts,...

After a long period of study, practice, and planning, I present my first lightsaber, which also happens to be an MHS saber.


CRUSADER

Its current internals are as follows:

Luxeon Lux V LED...

Thaxos, I'm just reading your thread, excellent work on the suit! You get my vote among the other Mandos in the con pics, probably cause your cape makes yours freakin EPIC. ;)

Thanks, Novastar!
That was a great piece of... theory? if you will...

So once again, the key phrase here is "within reason."

Obviously, if an LED wants 700mA at 6.8v, you dont want to shove...

Haha! There's an easy answer for that=

"I dont know, I havnt seen it done. YOU figure it out. That's what everyone else did."

On a side note, a mandalorian having a random special lightsaber...

Haha well then yep, probably isnt a vibroblade. That's a good point about the cortosis weave though, sometimes I forget where I am; I should know everyone on this site is most likely as big a dork as...

Nice saber, Do-Clo. I agree it has that kind of... old world feel... looks like a lightsaber Indiana Jones might use.

A metal sword that is able to repel a lightsaber's beam is called a Vibroblade. They appeared in the extended universe books, and in the KOTOR video games. ;)

As for Clone Wars, all this talk...

I dig the rubber chicken idea; clown Star Wars fans everywhere would start following you around waiting for their chance to swipe it...

After reading over this conversation (being a padawan of sorts when it comes to sabersmithing) I have learned that you cannot correctly power an LED through a driver without AT LEAST matching the...

thanks for your help guys! I ended up just using some diagonal cutters and bulldozed the casing to get in there... i think you guys all misunderstood what i was saying but oh well i got what i needed...

okay i got the endcap off, but there seems to be some glue holding the rigging for the speaker together...

any tips on how to safely salvage the MR speaker from a Luke ROTJ battery module? i dont think using a hammer is the best solution... or is it?