Your first image is correct for how you should wire the board. When you go to wire it just check the legs on the recharge port and the transistor. Also, I can't tell you if that resistor is correct...
Type: Posts; User: BZWingZero
Your first image is correct for how you should wire the board. When you go to wire it just check the legs on the recharge port and the transistor. Also, I can't tell you if that resistor is correct...
It might be easier to rig up a miniature slide switch like you might find on a toy with a disk cover that pushes the slider based on how you turn it.
I haven't done them, but the store has an entire section of parts to help with it.
Your wiring is not right in your picture. Your picture shows a weird hybrid between series and parallel. Specifically, you have two dies connected in parallel to the first die which is then connected...
The drill and tap service will let you get the recharge port placed in any part. Some pommel inserts (e.g. this one) are configured to have a recharge port attached. If you put it there, the speaker...
Strange sounds are the hallmark of a low battery. Glad its working.
Charge your batteries to full, then try again.
Yes, the diagram looks like it will work. The TIP42 is the commonly suggested transistor, but I like a logic-level MOSFET as they can react faster.
The blade builder's speaker is double the...
The 2010 Hasbro Tutorial will have the answers yous seek.
One thing to keep in mind, the bladebuilders speaker is 8ohm instead of 4 iirc. Some searching of the forum will have that answer.
That is the standard length of MHSv1 parts. Some older parts were .5", but anything since TFA (and probably earlier) has been the .4 standard.
Resistors, like all of the other parts are in the store.
On The Custom Saber Shop's youtube channel there's a chassis building video, which explains how to use the discs.
You'll need a resistor for your LED. And probably some sort of saber body to put all the parts in, and maybe some chassis parts to hold them in place.
If you understand basic electrics, a stunt...
A 9v battery will not last as long as 3xAA.
Your best bet is to start with the 2010 Hasbro Tutorial
Your LED will need an appropriate resistor. Which will depend on your battery solution and...
I can confirm that the heat sinks are identical and I've swapped LED/heatsink/lens between the two before.
The dynaohm is a dynamic or variable resistor. It adjusts to keep the current constant for the led.
You can certainly replace it with a regular resistor if you calculate the value. Since its for...
The buckpucks are correct, 700ma for the red, and 1000ma for the blue.
The buckpucks require >5v to run, so you will need to have at least 4 AAA batteries wired in series if you want them to work....
If you're using a cellphone powerbank, it is regulated to 5v already. Although if you open it up, you'll find a standard 18650 battery and a step-up circuit to convert the battery's 3.7v to 5v for...
Probably, but since its a different LED your resistors will be different.
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Good luck on your first build. You've found the right place to...
The only difference between the batteries will be the runtime. The 18650 pack will last longer, but will take more space. The LED will run at the same brightness.
Based on the information presented in this thread, the green "capacitor" looking thing is the clash sensor, and the black cylinder is the swing sensor.
If the blade builder's card is like any of the other Hasbro ones, that looks like the clash sensor.
Most people will use Li-ion batteries instead of NiMHs. Each Li-ion cell will provide 3.4v, and two of them in series in an AA battery holder will provide 7.4v. 14500 batteries are AA sized.
A...
Each LED die should have its own resistor. The voltage drop of an LED is based on its color. Wattage is just volts x amps. So if you know the voltage drop and the wattage, you can figure out the...
Molex is a brand name. They make many, many connectors. From very small ones, to very large ones.