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Type: Posts; User: Mad Hatter

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  1. Replies
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    Sorry, I only accept right arms as payment..

    Sorry, I only accept right arms as payment..
  2. Sign me up. :D

    Sign me up. :D
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    No spring under the LED. The LED just sits on top...

    No spring under the LED. The LED just sits on top of the switch. The spring sits under the switch cap to give it a little more muscle.
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    Yes, it's just glued in. Nothing fancy.

    Yes, it's just glued in. Nothing fancy.
  5. The bargraph does take off when the blade goes...

    The bargraph does take off when the blade goes on, but that's just the programming inside the CF doing the work on the LED 1-4 outs (which can also be hot in standby mode).

    The shimmer output just...
  6. The 3.3v pad is hot whenever the CF has power....

    The 3.3v pad is hot whenever the CF has power. The blade doesn't need to be on. If you look at the video of my saber, the three accent LEDs that are always on are being powered from the 3.3v pad....
  7. Yep, we've got the same goal. I was actually...

    Yep, we've got the same goal. I was actually planning on sending my board back to Erv for an update to 4.1 to get the clash signal on lockup until I realized that it was just a momentary signal.

    I...
  8. Yep, I followed all that. My question is about...

    Yep, I followed all that. My question is about whether it is a problem to have the capacitor in the same line as the 3.3v aux signal on the CF (eg. powered by the aux pad). Do I just add it in...
  9. I thought about doing something like this, but I...

    I thought about doing something like this, but I thought I would get a signal every time I hit the aux button. (Didn't know I could use a capacitor to delay the signal.)

    Is it possible to take...
  10. I actually wanted the full 4 dies for blade...

    I actually wanted the full 4 dies for blade lockup, but there's no signal to trigger it. (The shimmer output is always hot... it's just tapping the voltage off the main output. And the clash signal...
  11. Look at your diagram.. You have two black leads...

    Look at your diagram.. You have two black leads coming off the top of the buckpuck, and one black lead ("Board -") on the bottom power extender. All three of those need to have a connection to the...
  12. He has the buckpuck/power extender part of the...

    He has the buckpuck/power extender part of the circuit right in the diagram here, other than the two - leads on the buckpuck aren't sharing a common ground... and he doesn't show where he's connected...
  13. Actually, the two power extenders work great for...

    Actually, the two power extenders work great for this... Erv's design, not mine. :) I had to ask him how to vary the puck output with the shimmer voltage. (It's weird because the open circuit on the...
  14. If I remember right, the buckpuck main and led...

    If I remember right, the buckpuck main and led ground wires need to be share a common ground in order to use the CF voltage as a controller. Once you clean up the main wiring, you may want to try...
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    Yes, to the battery and the kill switch. Just...

    Yes, to the battery and the kill switch. Just follow the wiring diagrams on the forum for adding the charge port/kill key. You power both the CF and puck from the battery. (You don't want to try to...
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    Thanks :) The diagram on the OP is the whole...

    Thanks :)
    The diagram on the OP is the whole circuit (I didn't leave anything out). I think I used a 1kohm potentiometer to tune the flash, but anything 500-2k would probably work fine. The...
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    If you mean the part on the bottom of the very...

    If you mean the part on the bottom of the very last pic, that's the chrome sink tube shroud.
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    I used some RTV rubber to take an impression of...

    I used some RTV rubber to take an impression of the Maul end cap insert, and then used powdered acryllic to make the parts. (Then primed the finished pieces black and dry brushed a few shades of...
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    Don't use a drill bit that large. It's impossible...

    Don't use a drill bit that large. It's impossible to keep it from chattering and you end up with a star shaped hole. Use smaller bits and open it with a dremmel. If you are using a shroud, the switch...
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    No secret. I got them at digikey before they sold...

    No secret. I got them at digikey before they sold them out. If you check there regularly you might get lucky. They were sold out for months, but I kept checking and eventually got a few more for my...
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    Actually, these are very hard to find. These...

    Actually, these are very hard to find. These speakers are not the little thin ones available at the big electronics suppliers. It's actually almost 20mm thick! - which, regardless of volume, gives...
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    I had a special source for this one, but search...

    I had a special source for this one, but search for vandal switches and you'll find similar switches.


    You could make a different logic circuit for 3 color, but they don't make 3mm RGB (that I...
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    The speaker is SIGNIFICANTLY better than the...

    The speaker is SIGNIFICANTLY better than the standard ones. When I first got it, I tested it next to the others to see how they compared, and there was no comparison. It has much more low end to it,...
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    Thanks Eandori :) Actually, the batteries are...

    Thanks Eandori :)

    Actually, the batteries are fine for what I'm doing. I'm not running all four dies in series, I've got them 2S2P. Wired this way, the red LED doesn't need more than 6v (and...
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    ROFL! No, it is hand cut with a dremel.

    ROFL!



    No, it is hand cut with a dremel.
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