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I'd go the PVC or other route. Wrapping in electrical tape or heat shrink is a bad idea. The board puts out heat that needs to dissipate. It can't if it's wrapped up.

You don't need a driver with the nano, just the correct resistor. It's far cheaper and smaller that way.

With reds I'd be careful. I'd measure the output first and see if one's needed or not.

There's a couple of stickied threads in the forum titled start here or something to that effect. Browse around, read, read some more, wait a week and read again. Then look through the store at the...

I hadn't used any, but a google search displayed quite a few results.

I personally haven't wired a pex quite like you did. I don't see anything wired to the part where the resistor would go on the pex. I do see you have a larger resistor in there somewhere, but I don't...

Any of the current single LED setups would kill the EL in terms of brightness as well.

Don't forget be cheap too.

I really like what you did on the board itself.

You've got too much solder on the joints and bridged two negative contacts. Each pad should be separate.

There should also be heat shrink on the charge port, and if you can don't strip as much...

I think you may have misunderstood. He probably recommended a crystal focus 6 sound board, which runs just fine at 7.4 volts. That will do a color changing blade and rice port just fine.

I like it, good job!

A lot of the neg wiring and ground spots can be linked together or shared. That would help clean up some wiring and save space.

I wouldn't even bother with tamya adapters, just cut the tamya off and wire the jst direct to the leads.

I was thinking it was a situation where you'd just pop in a fresh set of batteries and charge the dead ones out of the saber.

jst connectors on the batteries and the charger. Then you just pull and plug in.

You could always get the bezel and sand/grind it down to fit.

Grease the threads before hand next time. Aluminum tends to seize up.

I love simple designs like this. It doesn't appear on the surface that it has a lot going on, but that is what makes it so nice looking.

Buckpucks take a minimum of 5V and turn that into constant current regulation. Resistors block everything except what they're rated for.

Looks to me like the resistor you have for your accent LED is also going to your main, which would limit it to what the single accent is getting.

Make sure it's a latching switch. MR boards only use latching unless you use the lighthound PCB trick.

Again... It depends. You can choose to do either parallel or serial wiring. That would determine how you'd wire them. One has higher voltage requirements and uses less current, the other is the...

I don't see a battery solution, how are you powering it? Also, a lens and holder. Though one of the kits might come with it, I haven't used one yet.

Spray enamel works great, just treat it like...

Well as always, it depends!

Do you want to run parallel or series on 2 dies? Do you want to just use one die for the main blade and 2 for the clash? What color, what board, what batteries?