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The 3.7v is not underpowered, it is the correct battery. You need to use the 15A version. Pixels neither need nor want 5v, in actuality their ideal voltage is actually around 3.7-4v.

You need one of the 15A batteries for a pixel blade. the 3400mah cell will not work.

It's momentary switches. Read the manual for the board.

That's not how the math works. What you've approximated here is saying you are trying to pour two liters of water out of a one liter bottle. If you go over your budget you just don't get any more. ...

You should use 4v for the battery. Full is 4.2 and although conventional wisdom says it drops quickly, that isn't true for modern batteries.

There it no such thing as negative current or...

Please share your progress, I look forward to seeing how it goes!

You will want to thoroughly clean the parts before trying to paint it. There are various threads here discussing painting. In my personal experience the method of baking on the paint works best for...

Share some photos of the job and we might be able to lend some insight. Did you remove the SD before soldering? It's probably not the speaker.

I'm not sure why you scribbled the line and moved it, that is exactly equivalent.

When you plug in the charger the board should be disabled and not work at all.

I'm not sure what this refers to out of context, or what you think is wrong with this. In general bat- and gnd are almost always treated as equivalent. If you had something out of range on an...

I think everyone is over thinking this and you have a plan to make it work. Ultimately, you can sand or shim, and in either case it's not that complicated.

Anything can be compensated for. The LED module or pixel blade connector is designed to be clamped between the two pieces. There is no reason not do do what you want to do if you can make it work.

It is made from the parts you can buy from the shop.

If you ask Erv on FX he might tell you what the replacement part is. I'm pretty sure it's a common component, but zook/chewbacca or Erv would know for sure. If it's the same as on the V3 (looks...

I'm glad you got it sorted. Mtfbwy

The amp is the 8 pin chip near the speaker pads. It's a pretty standard component. There are a number of other things that could also have been zapped, does the saber light up and everything? ...

you'd hear it just fine. Depending on what pommel/cap you use, a pommel with a switch in it might have more air exchange than one without. One of my first sabers had both the recharge port and a...

You have a lot of pixels, I think you should really consider at least doubling that 26 or going to something heavier, at least for the power connections from the battery. You can use lighter...

It's not the speaker, it's the whole picture. Your blades are drawing way more power than the amp. It's just the push over the edge. Also when the effect triggers it probably draws a bit more...

if you use a chassis that holds the switch and pommel cap in place, the grip can removed from around everything else.

as far as wiring past the speaker, it will be easier with a smaller speaker,...

Why are you feeding this 14VDC?

Yes, you would need a a buck puck for each LED as well as a potentiometer for the adjustment.

The 6 wire buck pucks are tunable, but once you spend the money on those, and trying to fit everything into the saber, it's probably cheaper and easier to just put a sound card in. If you don't want...

That's really not how it works, the resistor, when needed, needs to be as close as possible to the first pixel in the chain. It is for signal integrity. You don't necessarily need it, but it is...

You should probably run separate power lines, or bring the power lines from the blade back to the crystal. If you do wire it through the crystal, make sure you solder the wires together, don't rely...

You should read the manual carefully.

Nothing bad will happen as long as you follow the manual, because 2 LEDs is well within the ratings of the NBV4.

You made to use two power extenders. I'm...