Naming them makes it so much easier to refer to them in conversation down the road, if you make an impression, people will remember the name of your saber.
Type: Posts; User: DarkarNights
Naming them makes it so much easier to refer to them in conversation down the road, if you make an impression, people will remember the name of your saber.
Just pure awesome. Can you link to the site where you learned how to do the etching?
Yeah, those cheapos are built like little plastic tanks. When I opened an Obi I sawed off the pommel at the seam and then cracked the two halves apart and split it like a coconut. I found the dremel...
That I'm not sure of, I don't know the diameter of the standard hole to know if the end of the long AV will fit through.
You can't use the short AV switch with the AV bezel. If you want the short switch all you need is the hilt drilled for AV. If you really want the bezel for design aesthetics, then you will need a...
The PC requires two switches, one of which (for aux) must be a momentary. The Aux triggers the blaster block and lockup sounds. In the picture where you have your switch there is actually two...
I've also noticed that I have to tweak my swing settings when changing sound fonts, because a louder font can cause higher vibrations and set off unwanted swings.
If you have your volume setting on 4 the 2W bass speaker produces enough vibration to set off the swings if they are set at default sensitivity.
Yep, that PNP you linked to is correct. They come in different varieties of max voltage denoted by the letter at the end, as long as it's a TIP42, the letter at the end will not make a difference (at...
Wow, those Mass Effect props and armor look good enough to be in a big screen movie.
I'm loving everything about this saber, the color scheme is excellent.
I used different colors of heat shrink around my JST connectors to color code them. It's a life saver idea when you can't see where your wires are coming from after inserting the chassis.
You can get new and used products from independent sellers on Amazon.
Yes it flickers and shimmers, and you can adjust the settings to change the speed and rate of the flicker and the shimmer. Now don't ask me what the difference between a flicker and a shimmer is, but...
Yes, just contact Tim and let him know exactly what you want, he will index the parts so everything lines up.
I have tried 3/16 spacers, they don't work, they are slightly too small and thus won't kill the circuit. I have seen a suggestion by another member who said that putting heat shrink on the the spacer...
Get these batteries if you go with the 2AA holder http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/TrustFire-Protected-37V-900mAh-14500-Lithium-Battery-2-Pack-P342.aspx
This thread will help as well: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?14719-Recharge-port-with-JST-connectors
Looks awesome, I wonder if Tim would consider adding drilled out tips to the shop?
I've seen this done before using the rotj type boxes from TCSS, I'm not sure how exactly it was achieved. I think maybe the slot was widened so the card could move freely up and down with a spring...
I think Jedi Mynock is on the right track with using the PEX, I doubt you can get an usable FOC effect without it. And a multi die LED is a must.
I don't think it's possible to put a curve into polycarbonate blade.
Flush mounted recharge you say? Done by Jay Gon that was. Find it here you will. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2738-Jay-Gon-s-RLSA-EL-saber-conversion-(CF-V4)/page3
I think you will need to find an actual graflex flashgun tube to build what you have designed. Links to sites to buy stuff is against the rules here, so you won't get an answer to that.
Banana. I agree, that diagram is like a rats nest and not the right approach to achieve the desired result.