You can add sound by buying a soundboard or getting a economy force action board (from the toys) you just have to rewire and do more reading. If you choose to add sound you may need to buy a relay...
Type: Posts; User: Jean-Louis
You can add sound by buying a soundboard or getting a economy force action board (from the toys) you just have to rewire and do more reading. If you choose to add sound you may need to buy a relay...
Its no problem your the one helping me out. If you would please post it here I'd greatly appreciate it.
Right now I actually have one with a K2 soundboard and one plain.
Do you have a diagram for that? Or could you possibly point me in the direction of one?
How bout a way to have 2 soundcards installed and when connected only one runs, but seperated both do.
So i build two sabers... and connect them together. There has to be a more creative solution.
The soundboard to led isn't complicated set up. As long as it wouldn't sound uneven when attatched I'd sacrafice sound on one saber when detatched in favor of an easier wiring configuration.
I do want the hilt to seperate into two pieces so I assume the running two p4s off one board would eliminate that.
If I run two blades in one saber with one sound card how would I lay that out? Would I have to wire it to both or just to one? If I wire it to one would it sound dumb with two blades?
How much does one blade cost? I mean including the tubing a whole roll of wrap a whole tube of the glue and the tip?
For one blade it'd be the same cost as one from tcss. For multiple its cheaper. I don't think i have the skills for a blade I'd be happy with. But that would cut costs.
It would be cheaper but it'd lack the quality of a tcss blade or corbin.
The blade is what kills this. It is the most expensive piece. As far as the relay vs no relay goes the relay adds brightness and that is the most important part of a budget saber, since there won't...
Well i have never seen a diagram on how to wire it without the relay and everyone complains about running the LED off the board. Also it gets much brighter with a relay. LDM obviously has more...
So I have to get a slotted piece for the end cap and tape it off before I get it painted?
That's what i planned on. If I get the pvc custom painted and the speaker is exposed in the end cap will the painting ruin the speaker?
My bad i should have said p4 kit then listed specifics. Bad wording on my part.
Battery holder lens and lens holder are part of the Seoul p4 package. Heatsink is included in the pvc hilt price. I've found things that'd work at Lowe's. The speaker i mout in an open pommel, but...
At LDM: I just wanted to give everyone a budget option. I think it'd be a cool build. You need the relay with the buckpuck to run the soundcard. I think it takes more work if you run a resistor...
Okay guys I've been reading everything i can get my hands on. I've come across a bunch of budget threads. I think I have the solution (with sound even).
The list:
PVC Hilt- $10.00
Retention Screw-...
That'd be the reed. Thank you very much.
Thank you very much. Thanks to everyone who helped. Btw cardcollector has the best thread for relays and cheapy hasbros. Thanks again. Feel free to pm me. I'll be posting pics soon (hopefully) :D
Do I need a reed relay or a micro relay?
Okay so
MHS hilt
seoul p4 green 4 AA buckpuck mom switch
premium speaker
radioshack relay
Force action anakin soundboard
And i'm good to go.
This is my shopping cart
mhs hilt
seoul p4 green 1000mA buckpuck 4AA mom switch
premium speaker
I am going to hook this to a force action anakin soundboard
it seems so simple but is that all...