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Sorry I'm kind of late, but thought this might help.

I took these a little while back in hopes to build it one day. My hopes are now yours.
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Thanks guys. I may just go do the weathering, but it'll be the first time.

Yes, I used a sinktube for the graflex part and I cut the fins out of aluminum sheet metal. The red button is actually from the Ultimate lightsaber toy and I got the surrounding knurled part from...

Haven't posted in a while and I've put this project off for far too long. So last weekend, yesterday, I've finally finished it. My very own MHS/hardware TFU lightsaber.

Red 3W LED
Hasbro Ultimate...

Nope. I'd say wait 'til after the Superbowl. Maybe the guys at Ultra are probably watching too.

So do we have to remove the TCSS sound assembly before we send our boards in because some of us have ordered them that way.

I have that katana. Awesome saber.

These boards are comparable to the 616 kit, but still not as loud. I've tested these in the same echo chamber and still the MR is louder. But, the fact that this comes with Luke ROTJ sounds is...

You think it looks funky now, check out these pix. Makes me wanna just throw the lightsaber instead.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3019/3040011597_1149b5bc26_b.jpg

Actually like this

Shadows of the Empire (N64, focuses on Dash Rendar)

Dark Forces - Kyle Katarn

Dark Forces II: Jedi Knight - Kyle Katarn

Mysteries of the Sith, DF2 Expansion - Mara Jade

Wrong game. These are from Dark Forces 2: Jedi Knight made back in 1998

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mysteries_of_the_Sith#Expansion

The Jedi Academy is the 3rd installation.

I was just wondering, how deep does the blade actually go? It looks shorter than the normal 2in?

They don't have the original JK on XBOX. I think you're thinking about Jedi Outcast. These are from Dark Forces 2: Jedi Knight.

And yes, pc only.

I was feeling nostalgic today, so I started playing the old JK games. I forgot that I've always wanted the setup screen as a wallpaper, so I went ahead and ripped it for everyone who's played this...

I did the same exact conversion with my grab bag, on the same exact rubber floor in the your video. Only difference is I'm using a cyan bin1.
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After all this time, I've decided to post this saber up on ebay. Money is pretty tight right now, so to improve my 'poor student' situation I'll be selling all my lightsabers over the 2 months left...

My little collection

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3294/2987385269_92e14d4ff5.jpg

Please try and read the posts before asking.

If you look on the board itself, it's a deactivation switch when the blade retracts on the toy.

Get rid of them. They're only used when the toy blade is retracted to turn-off the saber.

If you run the LED straight off the battery, you WILL need a resisitor. If you run the Lux off the board, it will be resisted already, and you will NOT need a resisitor.

I just bought the Hasbro...

Old Batteries?

Dirty lenses?

Also, what happened to mine was the actually led was dirty. Once I used alcohol to clean it up, it was just as bright as my brand new one.

"Do or do not, there is no try..."

You should be just fine

Which hasbro board are you using? I just finished wiring up the "ultimate lightsaber" electronics this morning. If it's that one, then 4 AA should be just fine since I'm using 4 AAA with mine. No...

I would try wiring the motor in series with the clash -. That way when the spring makes contact it'll activate the motor. Just a thought...

For some reason the baseball bat trick intrigues me the most...