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I would HIGHLY suggest replacing the stock swing and clash sensors with the ones from the shop.
But if you use the motion sensors make sure to use two in parallel so that it picks up both directions...

Really, I would imagine the speaker sucking more than 300mA alone, plus the LED
are u sure?

hey does anyone know the current requirements of the obi wan board. I need to know so i can decide between this or this?
Thanks

Here is what I would suggest
replace the alkalines with the NiMH from the shop, they will have a much better battery life as they will not loose their energy to heat through the resistors (due to...

i have heard that 6 V will fry the FX boards
which is why the voltage regulator will save it
but what the transistor does is act like a switch
when voltage is applied to the emitter pin (middle...

haha thanks
BUT
dont forget to put resistors/buckpucks/drivers between the bcd rotary and the led

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=224&pictureid=1864
That should work
I forgot to upload the picture to my other post... sorry :|

Hey matt i just reread your post and found that you are using the positive wire right? but just to clear things up i decided to post a diagram of what i think you are trying to do

Matt if you are going to use the negative wire from the yoda you will still need an npn transistor. The difference between pnp and npn type transistors is the state of the base circuit. In a npn...

I really wouldn't worry about the volume of the speaker, it doesn't have a resonance chamber so it just about Haida in volume, blus droops all low tones.
I really would worry about your fried LED,...

For the first one use a 3V voltage regulator due to the inconsistant voltage output of Li-ions

For the second one do the same (6V regulator)

for the third use http://taskled.com/h6cc.html 6.7 A...

scott, what IS that mess?

Yeah I meant that it was a party foul cuz it was so NICE. Sorry if that wasn't clear :(. Anyway that saber looks great with the lips and the flowing curves.

A am in no way a saber god but I think I have some options for you.
A couple days ago I was looking for small mounts for a rebel and I came across This 10mm square mount (also sold pre assembled...

good find, plus its way cheaper than buying a full pad of graph paper for $4 if u cant seem to find a single sheet in your house :(

party foul :|:|:|:|

I would say put a tiny bit of milk in water till you have the milkeyness then put blue food coloring in it.

Hey id rather have my fingers smashed than cut off and cotorized tho

Welcome to the forum. But what are you
referring to when you say "GOD I hate these", EL blades?

If you are lucky then the on/off could be wired to a clash or motion sensor so that if either the motion or clash were triggered the saber could activate, I've heard of this system before but I have...

Very cool, and the custom blade plug matches the BH very nicely, great job on a great saber

I have never worked with these boards before but i believe that this is the correct wiring diagram
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=224&pictureid=1821

Yeah the thing with hydrochloric acid is that it will ATTACK the brass while the nickel and the chrome are relatively inert. So HCL poses the problem of good stoppers, covering the ends of the tubes...

Sorry guys it worked for me
I just put it in a pitcher
I would recreate it but I don't have any more citric acid.

Try a more concentrated solution then.
Idk what happened, but good idea with the electrical tape and the etching