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Wiring up a new saber and this is the first time I am using a buckpuck. I have the MWS version and I plan on having a AV switch in it and I would like the switch led to be on all the time, kinda like...

Thanks Silver

I know its green, just wasn't sure if the pads were specific or not

Building a saber for my son, and I am using the Rebel Star LED. It has 4 pads on it, 2+ & 2-, and I'm not sure which to use or does it even matter as long as you have a + and -. My last was a LED...

If I read correctly you can only use momentary switches with the stand alone puck, not the MWS one. It says in the description that it needs a latching switch. Is this correct?

Since Disney owns Marvel and Lucus now maybe you should ask them to sponsor your saber building endevors lol. I can see these being sold in all the gift shops at Disneyland :)

All of the MPS pommels are part of the MHS so any combination should work just fine. As far as the D-Ring if You can remove that one Im sure you could add a bigger one, but I dont have any experience...

I think I have finally done it! After quite some time and broken parts(switch, disks), wrong parts(Battery packs), and almost broken sound cards(accidentally popped one of the SMT components off...

Here is the config file

//Sound Font Comment
lc=400
hs=220
ls=50
i=41.28813171386719
resume=0
shmrd=210
shmrp=6

Anyone have any suggestions?

Do you think it could run a couple of the 10 W?

Was just wondering if you could run a saber staff off of 1 PC?

Now thats what Im talkin about!

Well I tried all the settings for the switch and nothing worked, so I took out the main and put my Aux mom switch in its place and it works as it should, once I set it to mom on the card. But I am...

its latching

no it isnt, but I have noticed that my switch appears to be stuck in the latched position. So I believe I need a new one

I have everything wired up, solder on, and plugged in. but when I remove the kill key from the recharge port the saber boots up and turns on. It acts like the switch isnt even there, I can push it...

Thats what I thought it looked like, can anyone verify that they have done it this way, or that you have Jay

Merry HO HO day

Kind of off topic, If I solder my resistor in line can I then skip using the top 2 positive pads on the PEX as so:

ahh, ok

OK so heres what I did. I fed the wire thru the hole then went up and around the screw, then tightend the screw down to hold it in place. Then a bit of heatshrink on each term. Sound good?

Really! I wouldnt have thought that would hold sufficiently. But go figure. So far building this has been a huge learning experience.

I haver this switch here http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Gold-Plated-Switch-P470.aspx. Im not sure what to do with the screw down terminals. Should I clamp the wire then...

AH-HA I see it now. Nice trick