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I've read through Azmaria Dei's Li-Ion Battery pack thread. This gave me an idea and is something I would like to try, but before I do I want to be absolutely certain things won't blow up. Would it...

Luke's Version 2 Saber From ROTJ had a graflex clamp, it was used in a few of the scenes when they blow up jaba's sail barge
here's a link to the photo of him holding it.
...

the 12mm AV switch will use a 7/16" drill bit and the tap you will need is a 12mm x 0.75" TAP i just bought the tap and i will be testing this out as soon as i get it in. i'll verify once i've tested...

from my experience, most of the time, the scratches come from the edges of the shroud where you cut the pattern out, rarely do i get a bur in the ID where there isn't an edge, unless it gets hung up...

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here's that photo of the polishing then sandblasting. its part of my Altair costume from assassin's creed, sorry about the poor quality of the photo this was before cell phone cameras...

i'm not sure if you have the means to do this, but i've used this trick quite a bit. take the part and put a layer of electrical tape over it. then use an razor/exact-o knife to cut out the pattern...

no problem, just glad to be able to help

1128611287oh yeah, drilled and tapped you're looking at about 1/8" to 3/16'" on each side... the bezel wall is 1/16" thick so use that as the reference size.

**EDIT** its a lot closer to 1/8" on...

no prob, man. good luck and happy building

**EDIT** i plan on drilling and tapping the ring so they will screw directly into the ring

1128411285 should have plenty of space for the wires, about 3/32" - 1/8" of space before they touch

**EDIT** these are the 12mm AV switches, and if you need a little more space, you could do like...

Nicely done, Sir.

Welcome, Darth Vislir!

painting is a skill. but once you have it, you have it. it's looking good so far though. hanging your parts def helps, and if your gonna paint more than one part at a time make sure you hang them...

no problem at all, it might be a week or so before i get them in though. it'll be at least a few more days before TCSS starts shipping again and it normally takes about 4-5 days for the stuff i order...

I plan doing the exact same thing but i'm gutting the 12mm av switches and trimming them down and ill be mounting leds and tactile switches beneath them because i plan on mounting the claw mount...

you'll have to sand the paint off of the ID of the shroud and sand the OD of the parts of the saber you want to paint. that way you'll have some clearance for the paint layer to fit between. it...

very cool saber, way to think outside of the box with that double emitter combo. def fit a round peg into square hole with style on that one.

i like the idea, but (and i'm just thinking of the logistics here) another possible issue with this would be the forward postage after the sabers get shuffled. you would have to include extra costs...

Will do, Sir, will do.

Does anybody know where I can get a copy of the old PC 1.5 manual? I've got two version 1.5's (unlocked versions) that I'm about to wire up for 2 sabers for my wife and a friend and I want to refresh...

Welcome, Zacharyah. Excellent looking saber design, I really like the shroud you've come up with. A nice take on the aggressive negotiations saber, or should I say SLIGHTLY MORE aggressive...

i use jewelry files quite a bit. they're cheap and really good for finesse work if you're scared you're gonna take off to much with a larger file.

**Edit** You could also use a piece of tape...

sure thing,

i didn't realize that you could delay the power switch from the board. that'll make life so much easier.

if i find it, i was just gonna mail it to him free of charge.

*edit- i should have been clear that i didn't plan on selling it to him in my first post....sorry about that.

I might have a buckpuck for you. It'll have to wait till I can get home to check though.

I'm in the same boat, my friend. I'm waiting for a Tim to restock his 6" female X female extensions, both...