It would, but I was worried about the longevity of the part staying in place. I've decided to to just use the fluted section with out extra grips. Thanks for the responses!
Type: Posts; User: welshm85
It would, but I was worried about the longevity of the part staying in place. I've decided to to just use the fluted section with out extra grips. Thanks for the responses!
So would I be better off getting a 5" double female part and having it milled for the grip style 1? I'm trying to go for a Windu, or VV fury look.
So I can’t set grip style 2 in the fluted section? Or have the flutes milled out for grip style 1?
Is better to use the grips for the 5" double female fluted section that need to be milled out or the stick on grips?
http://https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHSv1-speaker-and-2x-AA-battery-holder-P766.aspx
Is this compatible with the aa dummy cell to use with a 14500 3.7v battery?
Thanks!
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One will be purple and the other blue. Both loaded up with NBv3s!
What does the switch look like? I just converted my BS Luke and have the switch from that.
Do you know where this video is located? I looked at his youtube channel and didn't see it.
I need to replace the small screws that came with my ANH Luke conversion kit. It looks to be - 4-40 button head.
My cellophane was only so wide. So I had to cut it to length. I did this twice hence the 2 layers. I added a third wrapped layer and it is much better.
I have added 2 layers of cellophane to my thin walled trans white blade, but it still appears to be see through. Can I add another layer or should I sand the blade?
Looks sweet!
Damn, that looks great!
Here is a recent build that I did that is TCW Ahsoka based.
I purchased a sink knob from Lowes and epoxied it to the pommel #1.
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I painted it to match my shroud.
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Here is the saber...
I have Activation box style 12 and Activation box style 13. I am not going to be using a rice port or a or switch 20. My question is can I fit an accent led in these holes?
Thank you FJK for sharing this. I knew I saw something somewhere in relation to Ohm's law but couldn't find it.
I have used 1 ohm 2 watt resistors for my reds in the past while running off of a 3.7 volt.
This is the calculator that I use.
That depends on the led and your battery. What is your battery set up?
If you are going to swap the led out, I would see if you could get the resistor pre-wired on to the module above the jst connector.
Do we have access to the copper heat sink he is talking about with out the module.
I can see that. Especially if you wanted to swap the led color between say, red and blue.
But to answer you main original question, yes you will need a resistor for a red led. I'm sure you have utilized a resistor calculator and have come up with the necessary resistor.