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Can you verify that your battery is fully charged?

Here's an elegant explanation as to why.

It's not a "feeling." Link: Why exactly can't a single resistor be used for many parallel LEDs?

^This

It's not heat, it's the amount of time the heat is applied that's the problem.

When I feel rusty, I do the wire soldering first and save the board soldering for when I feel on my game.

We have said this elsewhere: if one die pops, the other one is GUARANTEED to pop too if you combine into one resistor. A die popping is more likely too, as a manufacturing defect/imperfection could...

If you want to get fancy, you can wire it in three. Example, if you wire the resistors to each die on the positive side, you could combine the negatives in parallel at the LEDs and only have one...

Also be advised that prolong heat kills the battery's internals, so soldering batteries needs to be done quickly. When possible, I recommend just getting the pre-wired versions and clipping/soldering...

Sorry for the bad experiences. Hopefully you can recover and continue on. I currently have three sabers in progress and no time to work them. It will probably take me years to complete, but I try to...

Yes, DynaOhm - for small 20mA lights only, ex. AV switch lights and accents:

1. Positive side of circuit only.
2. IN/+ connected to power source
3. OUT/-/<blank> connected to LED+ terminal

Generally, we also usually round-up when purchasing the resistors in stock here, rarely getting the EXACT resistor the calculations indicate. Perhaps I'm foolishly being indifferent, but I ASSUME the...

Agreeing with FJK, one resistor on a splice for two LEDs in parallel is problematic for this reason. If there is a slight difference in the LED dies, from the manufacturing for example, they won't...

The DynaOhm's posts are specific. Unlike a regular resistor, the way you connect it DOES matter:

DynaOhm In/+ needs to connect to the power source

DynaOhm Out/-/<blank> needs to connect to LED...

If OP went with a 7.4V pack, could he just wire 2 of the 3 main LEDs in series and the third in parallel to save an amp and run-time, rounding up to a 1ohm 2w resistor on the two LED dies in series...

While I certainly advocate safety and appreciate the skill involved in making a 4-AA Cell, 3V battery pack, it is what the original calculations were based on. I do make an assumption that those...

Did you read JediCarpet's 9th post in this thread, FORGETFUL Jedi Knight?

If he wires 2 AAs in parallel to extend run-time, repeat that for the other 2 AAs, and then wires those two packs in series with each other, he would have a 3V setup with twice the run-time of a...

Resistor Color Coding

0.47ohm, 0.5w resistor (Yellow-Violet-Silver)
Yellow = 4; Violet = 7; Silver = 10^-2 -----> 47 x 10^-2 -----> 0.47 Ohm

2ohm, 1 watt should be Red-Black-Gold representing:...

12mm latching switch? I don't see that. I see momentary but not latching in TCSS store.

Forgetting a possible problem you may have with momentary vs. latching, here's a short-short version that I...

Your math is good, and the rounding-up values will work. I can't endorse any other vendor except TCSS.

Yes, to each their own. Resistors are the protection so the LEDs don't get fried. Normal resistors can go either side, positive or negative, and their posts can be flipped. However as I previously...

Watch the Custom Saber Shop You Tube videos.

You'll need your infrastructure pieces first, like a soldering iron. Price it out. You'll be spending hundreds before you buy saber pieces.

If you...

Correct:

IN is + (connected to the power source)

OUT is - (connected to the switch's LED+ post)

I heard DynaOhm! If wiring them yourself note: the "IN" post needs to connect to the power supply, and the "OUT" post needs to connect to the LED+ post.

Each color is different as far as what voltage "it needs." However for everything sold here, a 3.7V lithium ion battery will power any individual LED die regardless of manufacturer, Rebel or Cree....