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Oh and I forgot to mention that the card now has heat marks from constantly soldering and desoldering now. If some of the cards on YouTube are any indication (burn marks and booger globs of solder...

So here is where I'm at with the card:

SD card was not in while soldering. I plugged it into the computer and made sure it wasn't blank. Upon checking it a second time, I decided to run a scan on...

Did all that. No boot sound at all. SD card reads. Didn't solder with the card in.

After all that, I decided to try a latching switch in case my SD file wasn't right. (At this point all I did was verify the information was right.)

No life from the board. Every video I watch...

I've tried both combinations just to see if something wasn't right.

My first wiring was: Yellow positive went to ACT and Yellow Ground went to GND next to the AUX positive pad. Red with resistor...

Completely charged.

Tried it without the yellow JST and nothing. Tried hard wiring everything by cutting off the JST connectors and connecting them together and there's nothing. I also checked it with a latching switch...

10638

106351063610637Here are the pics.

I'll post some in a minute. I was getting a fast flashing LED ring for a couple seconds. Now it's just dead. I wired the LED to the AUX switch pad to see if it made a difference. I got the same...

Forgive my ignorance, as I've been trying to figure this out all night.

I have a PC3.5 (just got it today) that I am trying to wire up. I'm staring at wiring diagrams, and I thought it was all...

My last piece I'm waiting on now is just the PC3.5. Once that is available I'll be able to finalize the wiring and figure out where I want connectors.

So far I have a JST on my speaker and my LED....

Great advice. I'm aware of the dangers and was only using them to test the LED and make sure it was functioning. For the actual saber I'm using 2 TrustFire batteries I picked up from TCSS. It was...

Glad I'm not the only one. LOL. I'm getting pictures during the process and I'll post a write up for this particular LED and how to use it if someone chooses it.

True. It was definitely upsetting and joyful at the same time. Upsetting that even though it was aimed away from me and blinded me, joyful that it worked and was bright enough to blind me while...

My new tri rebels are in. I bridged the 2 red LEDs to run in series and have the white LED for FoC still open for now. I connected them to a 700mAh buckpuck and my LiPo batteries and the 2 red LEDs...

Looks awesome! What color are you thinking about using? Is it a stunt or a sound saber?

When you learn the wrap the handle post up a tutorial. I'm thinking about creating a second saber out of...

Erv says the 3.5 should be in stock soon at TCSS. In the meantime, I would suggest going to his website. He has a full write up on them. Biggest thing is bug fixes and that it embeds color profiles...

The only reason why I suggest it is because saber building becomes addictive and leaves you room to upgrade later.

2x14500 batteries gives you more room in the saber. The switch you are looking at...

On what kind of battery setup? Your easiest, and best bet would be to use the 1000mAh buckpuck and run 2 14500 trust fire batteries either in a pack or in the AA holder.

Looks like I have a tri rebel I can use as a test piece I guess. I soldered a joint to run them in serial that I can remove. I'm going to put my Electronic Principles training to the ultimate test...

So while I was soldering my connection to the tri rebel my wife decided to run into my helping hands and the wire ripped the solder pad right off the tri rebel... And there's no more RRW in stock...

**EDIT** nevermind. I found a wiring diagram from Southpaw-Jinn that uses the 7007 tri rebel. Woo!

I think I bought the last one in stock. Sorry.

I'll be excited about that when I decide to learn color mixing. LOL.
For now I'm still learning series vs parallel for the Tri rebel.