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  1. It kinda looks like the yellow switch wire has...

    It kinda looks like the yellow switch wire has bridged the CPU with solder. Also, are you powering your pixels from the positive terminal of the CFX? I wouldn't do that, it's best to power the...
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    You want GX-16 connectors. If you're just doing...

    You want GX-16 connectors. If you're just doing a simple setup, you can go with the four-pin, as they carry the most amperage and are easiest to wire. However, if you're trying to do one of...
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    Thanks for the tips on the machine screws for the...

    Thanks for the tips on the machine screws for the clip @smurphin89 and the offer @null. I'm sure I can find something at the local bolt supply once I head down there one of these days.

    @Tom...
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    Crossguard 2.0 - Chrome kit

    Hey folks,

    Picked up a chrome crossguard 2.0 kit back on May the 4th and it's been a long haul to get the saber built, finally buttoned it up this week.

    When the hilt first arrived, I toyed...
  5. No need to strip it. Just roughen the surface...

    No need to strip it. Just roughen the surface and use an etching primer before painting.
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    I do, though my happy days of saber building are...

    I do, though my happy days of saber building are at and end for a while. Taking some online training while I'm stuck at home, so my free time just evaporated. Between keeping up the house, doing my...
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    Glad you like it. The control box is a...

    Glad you like it. The control box is a low-profile OneReplicas unit, picked it up from their Etsy Store.

    As for the drifting, I used to spend my summers doing WMCA Solo II competitions. I've...
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    Final assembly: https://i.imgur.com/gkZxR9s.jpg"...

    Final assembly:
    https://i.imgur.com/gkZxR9s.jpg"

    Moved the control box to the middle of the saber, rather than the bottom as it made the install much easier. Having the control box at the bottom...
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    It's actually really nice to hold, don't find...

    It's actually really nice to hold, don't find that the lip on the bottom choke digs in or anything. The bunny ears are there for asymmetrical reasons as I feel a major part of SW props is...
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    I'm doing a build right now that has a small...

    I'm doing a build right now that has a small MHSv2 section
    https://i.imgur.com/ITGMj9U.jpg
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    My parts have all arrived, threw everything...

    My parts have all arrived, threw everything together for a quick mockup (the ears and box have a couple dabs of superglue for testing before I drill retention screws)
    https://i.imgur.com/tNFbafR.jpg...
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    SA22C's second MHS build

    Going to document my MHS build here in this thread.

    MHS parts list:

    Pommel Style 4 (no cubes)
    2" double female extension MHSv1
    Male to male MHS V1/V2 adapter
    2" double female extension...
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    No, but it's an easy install. Wire up your LED...

    No, but it's an easy install. Wire up your LED star, route the wires through the center hole on the copper heatsink. Affix the star to the heatsink with a thermal adhesive pad, then screw the...
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    I think that 'eco chassis' is for the NEW LS6,...

    I think that 'eco chassis' is for the NEW LS6, not the gullwing. You should double check, as the new one has a much bigger ID than the gullwing so the chassis' aren't interchangeable.
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    The LS6 holds a 1 inch blade. If you want to go...

    The LS6 holds a 1 inch blade. If you want to go the heatsink route, the alternate bladeholder sold here is a great option and will allow you to use a Tri-Cree and a thin-walled 1 inch blade.

    I...
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    The ID of the K4 brass neck is really tiny so I...

    The ID of the K4 brass neck is really tiny so I don't think there is room to put anything in there for reinforcement. I've sparred with my nephew a few times but nothing with any kind of force. I...
  17. Use an 8ohm resistor.

    Use an 8ohm resistor.
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    That means a lot coming from you Tom, Thanks!

    That means a lot coming from you Tom, Thanks!
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    Build: Starkiller Graflex 2.0 Conversion

    Hey Folks,

    I found myself in possession of a spare (and very blemished) Graflex 2.0 top, red button retention screw and bunny ears so I thought that I'd embark on crafting something very close to...
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    You could try the ace beam 21700 protected cell....

    You could try the ace beam 21700 protected cell. 5000 mAh and 20A cutoff. I’ve got a couple in Graflex hilts and the runtime is really good.
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    I don't think there are any 3rd party PCBs...

    I don't think there are any 3rd party PCBs available. Good news is that there is plenty of room in the kit to mount a couple of tactiles in the space where the PCB mounts.
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    That’s what most people (and myself) are using....

    That’s what most people (and myself) are using. There are a couple of 15A options out there but I haven’t found those to be a requirement. In fact, my neopixel LS6 uses the 10A battery sold here...
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    Neopixel is doable, there are a couple sellers in...

    Neopixel is doable, there are a couple sellers in Shapeways that sell connector holders. I've done an LS6 with Neopixel and its got similar blade depth in the socket.
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    So the K4 is a bit of an odd duck, as it doesn't...

    So the K4 is a bit of an odd duck, as it doesn't really have a space for a LED heatsink.

    When I installed mine, I just used the tri-cree adhesive thermal pad and stuck the LED to the bottom of the...
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    SA22C's fourth saber

    Folks,

    I've done a few installs now, all Korbanth/Parks hilts (Graflex, K4 and LS6) and I got the itch to build an MHS next. Here's what I came up with:

    https://i.imgur.com/xsDUDt8.jpg...
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