Search:

I already knew they were 1.15" ID, took that into account when I did my assessment. It's not that you are SOL per say, it's just a lot for a first time build and would be expensive for a commission....

Might be faster responses if you join the TCSS Discord, lot more of us including myself are active there. https://discord.gg/aVnzyxZZ There are a couple other lightsaber discords as well, but won't...

yeah, tbh I can tell you now that if you were to outsource this specific hilt design you would most likely get charged an arm and a leg for the commission. While I can see what you would want would...

Now that I'm a bit more awake and actually fully comprehend what I have read. Going off what is there it might be possible for an experience smith to make a saber with visible chamber with those...

So I assume you are looking for something similar to this
18055

That is MHSv1, and has an ID of 1.15" on those parts specifically, were you wanting to do this with MHSv2? Also, salvageable in...

Yes, it'll work just fine, the CFX has 4 channels so you could use a quad cree if you really wanted (overkill). And yes, you'll still need a resistor.

The tip on a cree setup isn't really lit up too much regardless of being clear or trans-white. The setup looks good, but if you want a brighter blade I would suggest a tri-cree (you would wire each...

yeah, I was eyeing the LS6 myself for a custom build. and yeah, it wouldn't bee a good stunt saber per say since it's a thin neck saber, it would bend too easy and there isn't much of the blade that...

Not sure why you need arctic silver in that list. I would suggest getting some 22 AWG wire for the battery/neopixel connections. 30 AWG will not handle the current a neopixel blade pulls.

Got inspiration, and will soon have money, now I just need parts to be in stock :-P

Then yes, you would run the data line from the board to the crystal, then from the crystals data out to the neopixel connector.

Let me rephrase. Do you want the crystal to be considered by the board the first pixel of the blade, or do you want it to share the config of the first pixel of the blade?

depends if you are going to have the pixel in line with the blade pixels or parallel.

The background color selector is a nice touch, the interface is looking cleaner. I thought of something though, one way you could incorporate the powder coating options is in that right click menu...

You'll probably need to update the speaker as well if you don't have a quality one for the CFX.

you can use the resistor calculator on the store to figure out the resistors you need, but I will make some assumptions here. Assuming you are getting the CopperNova from the store, you will need...

TinkerCAD. It's online, it's free, it has tutorials, and you can export top a 3D printable format.

The updated thumbnails are very good, easy to tell what part is what. The hover over information is fantastic, even says how many are is stock in the store. One added thing would be to either add...

I take that to mean, "Test it again you nerf herders."

Might have to contact Tim through the contact us page in the store to discuss custom work.

Guess it'll be an experiment. Let us know how it works or if it doesn't.

Unfortunately no, only thing I can think of is to message erv and see if he has any other ideas besides the recharge port.

I look at this saber and think, "damn he's good.... " makes me wonder if I'll ever be that good at making sabers.

No actual experience with that switch, but I'd imagine it's the same as any other slide switch, the slide corresponds to the pins that it bridges. Example, the above image the first pin and second...

I've been learning myself and what I put together is a cheat sheet of the normal ID of MHS parts and their tolerances. Then I go into tinkerCAD and start with a cylinder that is solid an at a 1.24"...