Actually grey if you have an additional 15 dollars to spare you could buy an ultimate FX saber and gut it for it's board, they're a bit better than the el cheapo boards mainly because the blade...
Type: Posts; User: Ka'getsu
Actually grey if you have an additional 15 dollars to spare you could buy an ultimate FX saber and gut it for it's board, they're a bit better than the el cheapo boards mainly because the blade...
Yep that would be the one. And as far as the rechargeable batteries running the electronics you shouldn't have a problem with it, but you should make sure that you wire a tip 42 transistor
to the...
Well Guardian almost all saber blades are made out of polycarbonate (3/4-1" thin or thick walled) as far as brightness goes, it really depends on what you use to diffuse
the light with, and the...
I don't know.... It sort of looks green to me
How badly did you break it? If It's not too bad, you might be able to repair it.
And just FYI it's really bad etiquette to solicit sales or trades on these forums
(if that's what you're trying to...
hey Radioman... a quick answer to you r second question You can go over to this thread http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?675-MR-Conversions&highlight=saber+conversions and see...
They most likely will (have flux cored solder) you could also get away with using rosin cored solder. Also if you use flux cored, be sure to clean the joint afterwards to prevent it from rusting
In a "Bifurcating" saber core the crystals are oriented end to end, I believe
Hope that helps.
Cheers :)
I agree with havoc.. nice build. i do have one question though, what are you going to use for a heatsink? If you're wanting to save space you can use a 3/4" copper endcap as seen in this tutorial...
Yeah they do, you can use them for just about any 3 wat. led, and with a little modification (1" section of 3/4" id. copper pipe, and 1" section of 3/4" aluminum rod along with the endcap. Wrap the...
Tim is usually pretty good at geting back to people quickly, so you can expect a response within a day or two
Yeah... What Jenny and Havoc said:)
i have to agree with Ripper that's really nice shroud work. hope to see it completed soon.
Cheers :)
-K-
I like the saber, and I'd also like to say that you did a really good job of explaining how you built the chassis for it. quick, simple and easy to follow
keep up the good work
cheers
Ka'ge
Nice saber, I really like the shroud work, must have taken a fair bit of quality dremmel time.
nicely done saber.... looks really comfortable to wield
I do have to say. that saber is coming together rather nicely :)
I personally like the emitter, you could however cut the inner part of it at a 30 degree angle to give it a little more character. Anyhow it looks like it's going to be a nice looking saber...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/forumdisplay.php?15-MR-and-Hasbro-to-luxeon-3w-conversions, and invest in a drill & tap set for the thumb hole screw, as far as i know the conversion kits that...
Both types should be fine, my personal preference would be the 16/0.2 mm. since it'll give you a bit more leeway, 'ccause i believe that an MR board can push up to 1500 ma (1.5 amps) if my memory...
yep... i agree with sunrider, radio shack $2.00 or less
@Garrek I noticed that you said that you were going to run your led dies in series.... Depending on the power solution you're going to use, you might want to think about running them in parallel,...
Nice... I'm digging on the shroud word and your design aesthetic, really solid work :)
@ Jenny, he's using a Crystal Focus v5 LS. as a sound/ led driver, for the most part it can drive the main led, accent led's play movie accurate sound fonts and make breakfast for you. (not sure...
looks good so far, I know that I'd be happy with it if I was your customer :)