An AA battery pack with two NiMh batteries (2.4v) is what I use for tests, not super bright, but and safe for reds too.
Type: Posts; User: lovetadraw
An AA battery pack with two NiMh batteries (2.4v) is what I use for tests, not super bright, but and safe for reds too.
A mostly clear crystal can work, all I find that you need are just a few flecks.
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I used a 4-40 for the blade of a tiny hilt that won't be dueled with and it works okay. it's only got like a 12" 3/4" blade in it though. Its a Yoda type hilt.
4-40 retention screws can be used...
Don't hold me responsible if this doesn't work/gets stuck/breaks, but you could sand it down a little.
That blade is dope.
I've found that 3/4" fits in thick walled 1" though.
For a rusty look, I like to use hammered bronze spray paint sprayed from a good distance away.
The 3.3v power indicator pad or the DS pad.
I found that even the v6 works if you cut off the speaker part and sand the main part slightly.
I would grind it down, but beware, one good hit during a duel can snap some of them off.
I'll be honest, I'm not a brightness junky. My first build was a PVC stunt with a single deep-red rebel. However, a few months back I decided to play around with a QuadCree for a 3 channel NBv3 saber...
I had a similar problem with a mistake while wiring a recharge port, saber worked great till I charged it stopped working.
I recently ordered a trans-white 7/8" blade and asked for them to ship it with 1" thick walled diffuser in it. It fit for me.
You can also make chassis from 1" blade material.
George I believe said that lightsabers would seem to exhibit a lot of weight, so HG blades would be that.
I've hard dueled with mine, held up just fine.
I'd be careful of using the 15a batteries in the Keystone holders, I tried that and it snapped. Twice, one from TCSS and a spare I had lying around.
Its a removable cell so you don't use a RCP. I suppose one could modify it and put in a static cell and do an RCP, but I wouldn't.
Not sure, I assume so.
You set the drive values in the...
I would imagine yes. I had them do a guarded switch hole in the luke style ribbed section.
Being deep red, it'll be a little dimmer, but the color is a more true purple. I do most of my RGB setups with deep reds.
"Teslatechguy has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her." :/
I just wired an NBv4 with two reds on a quad-cree. (dR+R/rB/pcA, very strong full red, cool FoC options) The hardest part was wiring the leds because the MHS heatsinks don't have a center hole so...
I find if you do standard R/G/rB you get a pinkish white. When I do dR/G/rB it's a snowy silver and I love it. So I'd say max them/make them equal (battery save) and then lower the red as desired.
Depending on the color, I like clear blades or transwhite. I like cellophane the way some other guys d their blade film.
For a 3D print, I'd get a 1" heatsink and leave room for it.
2" or...
I believe Madcow says in one of TCSS's videos that Sinktube works well to make it a tight fit on the body.
Prizm is sound and driving (minus one channel), Emerald is just sound driver, and requires 7.4v, and is frickin' huge, no accent leds, no sd card.