If you have a multimeter, on the diode setting it should put out enough current to just turn them on, so you can look at them without searing your eyeballs.
Type: Posts; User: TheUnchosenOne
If you have a multimeter, on the diode setting it should put out enough current to just turn them on, so you can look at them without searing your eyeballs.
It does not matter which pad you wire each LED to, but I'd recommend doing them Red to L1, Green to L2, and Blue to L3, just so blade color is defined by RGB still.
TCSS is actually one of the best sources for tri-Crees.
I wasn't planning to actually run it above that, but I was assuming there was a difference between "should not" and "can not."
I got my bench power supply the other day and I finally got around to measuring the forward voltages of the LEDs for my next build. It's a tri-Rebel Luxeon, Lime/Cyan/Red. The Lime and Cyan are fine,...
Crees are brighter. Luxeon offers more colors, but if you're running a rB/G/R, a Cree is what you want.
And yes, it will work with the Pico Crumble.
This is one of my favorite switches for a lightsaber. I agree, it's got a very nice, satisfying click.
If you ever want to get the adapter off, a drilling and tapping a set screw is probably the way to go. If the adapter can just sit on it forever, you can glue it in.
I don't know what color that would come out to exactly, aside from somewhere in that red-orange spectrum. If you've got a Nano Biscotte with a PEx, or a Prizm or Crystal Focus, you can run both the...
You should get the 3.7V one, the 7.4 will require a pretty big resistor and you don't really need it.
The difference in run-time will be roughly 30 minutes, but with a single LED you're still...
If you really want to maximize brightness, you should measure the actual forward voltage and use that. It'll give you the brightest LED without having to worry much about overdriving it too hard.
For the royal blue, you could probably get away with the smallest ones in the shop, the .47 ohm .5W ones, even factoring in the higher voltage of a fully charged battery. If you have a proper...
If that's the red you're going for, two Deep Reds is probably the way to go. And keep in mind, it's going to look kind of pink in pictures. It will not in person.
Another good source for resistors is DigiKey. They have an absolutely massive selection.
It's a very tight fit. I I found it easiest to center the switch in the hole, and then put the cover over it and press down. A firm press with your thumb over the entire tab cover should do it.
Are the sounds in the right format? WAV, 16-bit (well, 10 for the NB technically, but 16 works), 22.05 kHz?
A low battery could definitely be the cause of that.
Was just about to suggest this. Forgot the NBv4 has that function. You probably just have to hold the button longer.
Did you put the other fonts back on it when you formatted the card when you added the new font?
Use a resistor, the NBv4 isn't equipped to do it on-board.
I'm pretty sure the only documentation for the Power Extender is in the manuals for the boards.
Round up to the nearest ohm value. So in this case (assuming you're right, I didn't actually check), use the 1.2 ohm 3 watt resistor.
You need to resistor them individually, so you'd calculate them separately, like so:
(3.7-2.5)/1= 1.2