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Oh, I see. I think I read something about the newsletter being discontinued. Any way I could find out when they're being sold again?

Slow down, Tex! I'm just trying to find my options here, not trying to mooch. I'm more than willing to put the money and the effort into putting together something that works (I already did that with...

Clash flash is definitely nice (and I'll probably be considering adding that, too), though I'm wondering more about the random flicker that sabers have when they're not really doing anything else .-.

So having used my simple foam lightsaber successfully in a game of Humans versus Zombies (albeit with much resoldering of the core LED string), I'm hoping to have upgraded it a little by the time...

What's a motion sensor got to do with flickering?

Now for the million-dollar question: How did he do it?

Put in more LEDs? Put in brighter LEDs? Put in more than one string of LEDs?

What batteries does this run on? What's the power...

I wonder how this looks if you stick a white LED string or white EL wire into one of the transparent jobs. With a suitable diffuser we'd have a very solid coring effect and consistent lighting.
...

That's a fancy phrase for a white pool noodle ;)

I'm back after some months. I made a "kid-safe" LED saber from the materials I had. Keep in mind this is just a very crude first model- that's why the blade is massive and the handle is a PVC pipe....

I'm looking for a good blade diffuser. The problem is that cellophane is rather different from polypropylene film, yet the latter is quite often sold as cellophane. Which is better for saber...

Mostly on the inside, but with enough of the gem exposed that you get good reflection.

Is it possible? Let's say for instance that I have a gem of a certain cut; what's the best way to stick that in a saber hilt so that it will both stay firmly in and still look good?

I called one of Lumiled's distributors a couple weeks ago- Lambertian Cyan Luxeon V's should be available from them in early September, so I expect that this availability should extend to other...

Really? Well, it sucks to be me.

A few weeks ago, a little idea popped into my head. The first style of building a lightsaber that I encountered was Makototsai's (using a hand-soldered string of small high-brightness LEDs to...

Well, never mind it... I'll sand my inner tube instead first and see what happens.

So I'd say I'm about 50% done with the roughest version of my experimentally lighted blade. One thing I need to know in order to continue is how to frost the inside of a polyc tube, WITHOUT frosting...

I liked the first one better, but this is still interesting.

If you DO make this one, make the color scheme white and gold and put a big ornate crucifix on it. It looks like a bishop, lol.

I'm betting these could fetch quite a pretty penny.

Yes, and I would wrap the joint in heatshrink after you are done soldering.

I did a little digging...

McMaster-Carr has a good price ($3.19/foot) on their thin-walled 8585K63 (1.25" OD 1.125" ID) polycarbonate tubes. US Plastics is the way to go for thick-walled, though...

I recommend thin-walled polycarbonate. It's certainly lighter than thick-walled and is already strong enough for dueling on its own.

1" or 3/4" is really a matter of preference, though I think...

Incidentally, someone advertising for the Hyperblade made a rather out-of-place comment on a thread I made on the Candlepower Forums.

Remember that dual-core setups have also been used by Corbin...

The thing's already soldered up, just not well. It seems to work just fine, though.

So I just got 24 feet of polycarbonate tube in the mail (2 eight foot lengths of 1" and 8 feet of 1/2" for protecting the inner string of LEDS). I have all the other parts I need to put together a...