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Yes, the brass buttons are held in by the tactile switches. During installation, I held the section with the holes downward, and dropped the buttons into said holes. Then, I slid the chassis over the...

Thank you all for your great advice! I'm going to go out and get some more film today, and try sanding the lens a bit. I'll keep yall updated as to the results.

Do you guys think it would work if I frosted the lens myself? (with fine grit sandpaper)

I used 3ft of clear gift wrap, and yes, the color separation has been there since I first finished the saber. I'm doing a small overhaul on the hilt, and I hope to get most of the big issues ironed...

I see now what you were saying. I took out the LED module and checked the lens' orientation, and all seems well. As for the batteries; the saber runs on two 18650's, and I charged them a few days...

Yeah, the lens is centered perfectly:

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Yes. I am using a small piece of 1" thin-wall blade as a adapter for the 7/8" blade. The lens is the small 18 degree one from TCSS.

I have tried the saber with a thick-wall blade with corbin film,...

In my most recent lightsaber (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17815-Miraan-build-log&highlight=miraan), I have one of the RGB tri-Cree LED's that TCSS sells. I'm using a...

Well, it can be used to power a single high-power LED, and it will most likely fit in the MHS parts (although you will have to measure the board to make sure). So in short: yes, it should work.

I would recommend using a thin-walled blade from the store. It is lighter, and I have never had one break. (even when me and my brother were whaling on each other! )

Did you turn the saber on when it was plugged in?

Yes, as long as the nuts are the ones that TCSS sells.

Where did you get your batteries? Also, are they individually protected, or do you have a single protection PCB for both?

It is probably a problem with the folder names or folder path. Could you post a list, showing the folder path and names?

This is a really well done saber! Good job!

Also, how do you like the Igniter sound board?

No, the board will burn out if you try to drive a rebel star off of it. Instead, you need to bring power directly from the battery to power the LED, and use the board's output to control the power....

Both style 2 and 4 will work for your purposes. Use style 4 if you want the whole chassis to stay put when you unscrew the extension.

This is incorrect. For series, you wire positive from the battery to positive of first LED, then negative of that LED to the positive of the next LED, then the negative of that LED to the negative of...

Looks good to me!

You need to connect the red wire to that little rectangle metal plate on the side of the triangle piece. I would solder it on, but you could use tape if you don't have solder.

The black wire...

Well, that LED only has one color........

Personally, I would try to exhaust all options with my current setup before completely changing it.

What happened?

Just a quick question: did you solder on the board with the SD card inserted?

Well, it looks as if you don't have the complete battery holder. You need to make sure that it has the cap on it. (should be a triangular piece of black plastic with metal tabs on the bottom and one...

Ok, it looks like you don't have the positive wire connected to the battery pack. If I remember correctly, the force action sabers had the battery pack cover on the bottom of the hilt. Make sure you...