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The one issue I see off the bat is the tall tactile switch seems to be wired wrong. Both wires need to be on one side of the switch as I recall.

It would be helpful to have a link to what you’re specifically talking about. 😉

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Welcome to the forums.

The board seems to be designed to power that specific led type. I think the diode should work, as long as you don’t try to change the power source.

Yes, you would need a different resistor. Which one depends on where the power is coming from. If it’s from a CFX accent pads, then you use 3.3V and 20 mA as your source.

It doesn’t sound like it, you’re basically exchanging an accent LED for a main LED from the sound of it. Also, there is a key detail missing in item#2, the amperage it needs to run.

Knowing what...

No. Those are good for in hilt builds.

This is the one you want:

https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DM-Sony-Li-Ion-18650-37V-15A-3120mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P1559.aspx

Ah! That’s not going to work. You will need a 15A 3.7V 18650 battery. I thought we had already covered that, but I guess not.

What kind of battery are you using?

Have you tried switching colors while the blade is out, to see if the connector changes color?

Are you sure the blade is pushed down far enough so that the pins on the hilt side are mAking full contact?

Sounds like it could be a configuration issue. You would have to post your config.txt file.

If you want to control them separately, you’ll need two cards (basically 2 of everything). You can get away with doing RGB in hilt setups with one, BUT you’re going to cut the run time in half, and...

That would do it.

Correct. The CF 9 has a voltage regulator attached to the main LED pads (see manual). Since you only have one LED, you attach it to those pads.

@RavenXP, just because it’s “capable” doesn’t mean...

Either you have it wired wrong, OR you have a short somewhere.

The battery definitely sounds like it was empty.

If you just have the one die, you won’t need a resistor because there is a voltage regulator on the main pads. When calculating the resistor, you always round UP, not down.

Fortunately, I wrote a nice guide to dealing with Ohm’s Law.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law

I agree with what RavenXP said. I use 20 gauge for the power and a Neopixel connectors, but I split them off so that there are two pos and neg to the connectors.

You will definitely need thicker wire for the Neopixel parts.

The description underneath the listing explains which battery is included and a link to the appropriate charger for it.

You would use just one of the (+) and (-) wires to the crystal and it should be CFX -> crystal -> blade.

To answer your other question, yes, just add one pixel.

From the looks of it, you can wire it in series with your main blade. From the CFX, the wires go to the various “in” ports, and the “out wires” go to your Neopixel connector in the blade holder.

No, I didn’t install one in that saber. Being able to easily remove the grip gives me (and the end user) easy access to the USB port. ;)