Search:

I'd like to see 12mm switch boxes. I like the ideaof having a box on my saber, but I don't like the size of the 16mm switches. I'd also like to see an inline switch box with 2 12mm switch holes, a...

I apologize for the highjacking, but where do you get the CF 7.5? The only one I can find in the store is the PC.

Use a Tactile Switch. They are small and should fit nicely inside the box, you might need to make some sort of holder thingy.

It is better to go off of rated voltage as "Fully charged" Voltage isn't going to last very long and is only ever so slightly higher anyway.

I think overall the builder needs an update.

Helping people understand the electronics of a saber is what this forum is all about. If you tell us your setup we can probably help you out so that you can get a true purple. (I would go blue with...

I suggest wearing some sort of eye protection, the clips have a tendency to fly out if not installed correctly.

You can always go bigger, never smaller so that resistor is fine. Wattage refers to how much heat they can dissipate before breaking down and overheating.

About the same as with any other configuration. What drives the LED is current, as long as you are pumping 1A through it the Voltage isn't going to matter much as far as brightness is concerned. ...

Check for any bubbles or black spots on your board, Soldering with the card in seems like a common mistake.

Stupid question, but did you solder with the sound card in?

you could sand down the facing, make it a curve so it looks good butted up against your main body, You could also try recessing the hole in your main body for your plug (I am assuming you drilled a...

If you are having to bend the pins you probably have the wrong length switch. Try a shorter switch or use the bezel to raise the length of the switch and solder your wires at a 90 degree angle.

That actually looks like a pretty cool saber.

you're fine, yes the Battery I linked is an all in one package, no need for anything else (You will need a chassis though) A resistor will work for a AA set up, but I'm not familiar with them, and...

A resistor would be best, Here's which one you would need (Assuming a 3.7V battery)

R=E/I

E=Es-Eled = 3.7-2.59 = 1.11

R=.81/1 = 1.11 Ohm

P = I^2*R = 1*1.11 = 1.11W

First My part.

Hilt style 5

Second: What do you want out of your saber? do you want sound? the ability to color mix? It's hard to suggest parts if you don't have an idea in your head...

You're going to need some way to limit current to the LED, either with a Buckpuck (recommended if you are not using sound) or with a resistor. for Batteries, if you are going buckpuck you are going...

Switch is entirely up to you, but may depend on what soundcard you have. If you have the NB you will need a momentary switch, whereas if you have the PC you can use either. It's entirely up to you,...

You need a resistor or Buckpuck for your LED, and I personally would go with the V3 Heatsink. A buckpuck would provide more consistent color over battery life, but requires a larger battery. If you...

Other than it being more inflexible because you have 2 not bendy bits together, there's nothing electrically wrong with having two resistors in series to get a higher ohm equivalency. As long as...

NO! Use the Potentiometer to find the resistor value you need for the proper color, make a note of these on a piece of paper, then remove the potentiometer and replace it with a resistor of the...

Did you format the SD card before saving? I remember reading somewhere that you have to do that to get it to work properly. (I could, and probably am, completely off base here)

for the FoC you will need a Power Extender with the NB (the PC and Prizm have them built in) your Blues should be wired in series, which means that they use the same current, which is what matters. ...

You also don't need the lens holder if you are using a tri-cree LED. The holders are designed for single LEDs.