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There's another one I saw that enables a whole Slothfurnace-style crystal chamber to be put in, also on Shapeways. Issue is with that one, it's supposed to be rigged with a sliding switch and I'm...

I'd appreciate it. I looked it up, does that chassis enable a full crystal reveal?, It's hard to tell from the rendered pictures.

Sweet, thanks. From what I hear, Vaapad on Facebook is coming out with an LS6 chassis, so I'll stay tuned for more info. Otherwise, I'll just have to whip something up. Or, I could potentially turn...

Hey, long time no see, I got bit by the custom saber bug again and I want to recreate Luke's ROTJ hero saber, full-out with sound. I've made and wired up a saber from MHS parts before, so this isn't...

I appreciate the help-I plan on just loctite-ing/JB-Welding the D-ring screws, so I don't think the thread engagement will be much of an issue (unless someone else knows better). And as for the TCSS...

I just picked up a Graflex 2-cell (complete, everything vintage) for dirt cheap today and thought, "Why not make something out of this?" since I have a spare Nano Biscotte board lying around, so here...

Yeah, I designed it from the get-go to have a LOT of grip real-estate. The smaller inner diameter made my first few attempts at putting a battery pack in it...difficult, but I got it all straightened...

Finally, after 2 or so months of actually owning the thing-I'm putting pictures up of my very first saber. It uses one Li-Ion 3.4v cell, a Lux Rebel Star Royal Blue LED and a NB board. The blade is a...

My whole setup worked perfectly until I took out the card and altered some swing sensitivity parameters. I posted the question there to see what Erv himself had to say about it.

I drove it at 918. I can't find a 2w 1 Ohm resistor anywhere for the life of me (the closest the circuit requires) but I'll keep searching for one and I don't find it that logical to order one all...

Well, now nothing works when I plug the board into the MWS harness, LED or no. I'm using a Royal Blue MHS module. I altered the drive parameters of the NB so the voltages match up without the use of...

Well, a new complication arose. When I have the LED module disconnected (I have a quick-disconnect) the thing works fine as far as sound goes. The second I plug it in, however, the LED lights up for...

I just reformatted in FAT and restored all the original files-nothing. You think if I PM Erv he might know what to do?

I re-wired the battery pack myself, so I know it's in parallel. The saber worked perfectly before I altered the parameters. I charged them both when I got them in the mail. I didn't electronically...

I just recently put my saber together (NB with two 3.7v Truefires wired in parallel), went in and edited some swing and clash sensitivity parameters (while staying well within the recommended bounds)...

I'll keep this in mind when I thread together my parts, thanks. I'm asking around to various machine shops at the moment and trying to get a price quote. It's...definitely more stubborn than just...

Well, I threw some penetrating oil on it and threw the parts in the freezer overnight and it still won't budge. I heard something about other people on here sending them of somewhere to get them...

And if the threads are destroyed beyond buffing out/gentle filing with a Dremel is pretty much the only course of action to buy new parts, because I imagine a thread tapping kit for that size to only...

I just got an MHS ribbed extension and a ribbed extension with choke and when I screwed them together I didn't realize I had accidentally crossed the threads until they were almost all the way...

So it's not worth throwing in a Corbin roll, because I hear the blades are somewhat dimmer than the transparent tubes from the get-go and it would detract from that even more.

I know that with the normal Corbin film in a translucent blade and either the LED driver or the NB soundboard you get the illusion of the blade scrolling on powerup/powerdown, but do you get the same...

I got .3 Ohms and .3W for the mainline resistor (seeing as the RBlue Lux runs on 1A of current, 3.7V of battery and 3.4 forward volts for the LED), so instead of trying to find the exact resistor for...

And if I were to wire them in parallel the resistor values(I plan on using a DynaOhm if it changes) for the switch LED as well as the Luxeon would remain the same? I would assume because each segment...

Huh..I didn't think of that. Thanks for the idea. Should I wire it in series or parallel?

I was afraid of that. So there's no way I could wire the LED in the switch to only illuminate when the switch activates the circuit? If not it's really no skin off my back to just have a bland AV...