It keeps sliding forward, and the rear of the board slips out of the chassis disk. The foam tape though is a good idea. I'll pick some up. Thanks.
Type: Posts; User: BartElroy
It keeps sliding forward, and the rear of the board slips out of the chassis disk. The foam tape though is a good idea. I'll pick some up. Thanks.
Pics, as requested.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/lightsaberpics/20160503_021309.jpg
https://s3.amazonaws.com/lightsaberpics/20160503_021303.jpg...
So, I've got a really nice build that's almost ready to go. Just one issue left. The NB V3 sits a bit loose in the chassis disks. I want this to be a duelable saber, so having the sound card slide...
Thanks. Fortunately, I don't need them for the build I'm doing tomorrow, so amazon has plenty of time to get them here before the next build, which will be whenever Tim restocks hilt bodies.
Okay, this may sound stupid, but I can't get the MPS clip into place. The needle nose pliers I have keep slipping out of the holes, and the clip will go flying. Is there a trick I'm missing?
So far, I haven't gotten any production level parts. Mostly because I've been unhappy with either the design, or the quality of the print for one reason or other, but after my latest test run, I...
Oh, it's not that. For the uses I've intended, the printed parts would be fine. The problem I'm having is getting layer adhesion with the ABS at all. I get good parts with PLA (though I've had...
My printer isn't terrible, but even though it's supposed to do ABS, I've never gotten any usable ABS parts out of it. It does reasonably well with PLA. I want a Lolzbot Taz5 or three, but I have...
I'm jealous. The problem with having a $350 printer is, you have a $350 printer. I want a nicer one, but I'm not buying anything else until the Carbon3D Clip printers hit the market.
What printer are you using bunger?
I'm using a Monoprice MakerSelect myself, which is based on the RepRap Prusa i3 reference design.
There's a lot of trial and error involved. You design a part, print it, see what doesn't work. Change your design, reprint, and go again. Waiting for the prints is tedious, but otherwise it's fun....
Hakko FX888D is a really good ESD safe station. Digital controls, changeable tips, everything you need. Love mine.
Do you know if Acetone would take off the Patina from the Olive Oil?
I'm actually planning on building an oversized rock tumbler for physical weathering at some point down the road. I figure 4 servos, some RC car tires. a 5 gallon bucket for a barrel, an arduino for...
I really doubt he's going to want to purchase a printer the size of a refrigerator that costs more than my car to print a blade holder for a saber. I suppose he could go with some place like a 3D...
I'd love to know as well. The weathering on this is absolutely beautiful.
Dese. I would suggest looking at the FX conversion kits in the store. You could probably put one of the aluminum blade holders from one of those inside this piece, and attach it with set screws and...
Got one of those for my own Saber, and a ribbed grooved extension choke combo for a saber I'm building for someone else. Very excited.
I would honestly have ranked Sidious' above Mace's. Much a it pains me, because I love that purple blade. But Sidious' saber is much cooler.
Female threaded versions of the Tonfa Adaptors, with threading that matches MHS V2, so we can screw on MHS V2 blade holders to make Kylo Ren Style Crossguard sabers
Um, what sound board are you using? I ask because a 9 volt battery is going to blow most of them.
Boxes are machined already, and in the queue for polishing, after which, they should be available in the store. Follow TCSS facebook page and you'll get all the info on stock updates and such.
That, sir, is a mighty fine looking saber. I am impressed.
SF hilts are not MHS compatible. The threading on them is different.
Just curious. Are there any other builders in the Orlando, FL area?