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Long time everyone!

Anyway I'll cut to the chase, I'm installing mods for Skyrim and I come across the magicka Sabers mod. I look through and I see this image

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Most of them look right...

Err yeah it is just floating in my hilt. Last week when I put in a few upgrades I moved the wires away to another area to free up the area around my board. So this thermal tape, do you mean to wrap...

I've noticed that when I fool around with my saber it'll suddenly turn off completely before turning back on again straight away which got me to thinking; my soundboard is hitting the hilt a bit hard...

I'm getting my parts within the next two weeks and I really think I need to get my killswitch checked out. I'm just adding a killswitch into my current saber.


6499 I'm sure about most of it...

I just had a few questions and wanted to see if I had the right idea with my new wiring set up since I wanted to do a bit of upgraded to my current lightsaber.

This is the old set up: 6350

and...

I'll be honest with you all, My first saber which I love dearly it a bit broken, The main body and the pommel became cross threaded and I had to resort to DIY means of fixing it but I thought of...

I have to wait till I get paid so I can order my stuff, then there is the 6 to 10 week wait XD

Oh My bad. SO this is much better right? 6140 I thought I was doing pretty well anyway, thank you so much ^^

Well the main switch has already been soldered to the NC1 >< but does this look better? 6139

Here is my green saber ^^ 6137

Umm the main switch is actually a latching AV switch and in my last wiring, 6135 It worked on the NC1. I was going from my old design and it worked fine.

It's been quite sometime since I built my first saber and I'll be honest, There have been some problems, one of which I fixed by filing my pommel and holding it with duck tape but now I have been...

when you finish your saber, do you put something around the PC-L to keep it from hitting the main body? I actually wrap electrical bubble wrap around my board, I would like to hear your opinions and...

I used a Seoul P4 green, Luxeon Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle and the Seoul P4 Lens holder. the blade is magnificent in the night X3

Well bugger. I thought I got the right resistor... oh well, let this be a lesson to me x3

Okay so far this is the best I've gotten so far but I know it can be brighter.

// Blinking LED configuration file
random=0
s00=11
d00=0
s01=11
d01=0
s02=11
d02=0

So you mean changing all the stages to 1? or both delay and stages? because both didn't work. I must sound like such an idiot D:

*Reads the page* Awww ****. I guess I skipped that page owo. I guess I won't be having the LED constantly on. how would I go about making the LED not blink? should I set my idlepulsing to 30?

I'm going to use this one to fight with my brother and friend who use the Hasbro sabers. I might make one without the sound but the next saber I'm thinking of will be something else indeed. Something...

Actually I would love it if the LED was on even when the blade isn't ignited.

Today I finished my lightsaber and I'm one happy duckling but I have a small question. The illuminated switch is blinking weakly when the blade is ignited, I wanted to know what I should enter into...

Too much trouble and I was using a 30 year old solder ><

Okay I had some trouble with it and still needs some settings adjustments but it's here and I love it <3 it looks like a blue saber but it's green.

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after final thoughts I...

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Okay, I know everything else look fine except for one one thing. I'm pretty sure that I have the wiring for LED terminals the other ways round. I cut and pasted this picture 5719 into my...

Congratulations fellow Jedi!