I wouldn't wait too long. I'm running low on boards already, so I'd guess that Tim isn't sitting on a large quantity either since he sells alot more components to DIY folks than I do.
And I don't...
Type: Posts; User: UltraSWG
I wouldn't wait too long. I'm running low on boards already, so I'd guess that Tim isn't sitting on a large quantity either since he sells alot more components to DIY folks than I do.
And I don't...
I know this thread is old, but I think I need to point out that it doesnt matter how well you secure the blade or set screw. There will always be a risk of LED exposure from the blade tip coming off....
The power management on the board has not fundementally changed. Its been tweaked to be more efficient, but Jay Gon is correct.
Sounds like a ghost in the machine!
Everything worked fine out of the hilt, but then stopped working once you put it in the hilt?
Ideally it's best to run the pot *before* the amp, but since that's not possible, a higher ohm pot after the amp will also work.
Using a potentiometer for volume control is a simple enough matter. Just run a 500K ohm pot inline with the speaker.
Made another vid with the radio shack switch mentioned in this thread. Also demonstrating the max sensitivity settings:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8BOA0_FfGY
Tactile switches are low bounce by their very nature; they are membrane activated, rather than plunger. Tactiles are easy to work with, too, you can even gut your favorite plunger type of switch and...
Not sure, don't have a ribbed section to test. Will a ribbed section fit a side by side AA pack?
BTW, yall, having to have the board mounted IS NOT an issue *if* you are using a good switch. We...
I made a vid of the compact setup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWyUcBfXO_o
Hey Duck, if it was loud outside the saber, but became muffled when you put it in the hilt, you'll need to redesign the acoustics of the hilt itself. Make sure you have a good resonance chamber and...
ArmOnFire, and Kal, did yall even watch the video? There is no change in power requirements.
There is nothing wrong with the board, it isn't failing. You just have to deliver power to it...
That would explain it.
Can you try some new batteries and see if the problem persists? Thanks.
This may sound stupid, but how long have you been using the same set of batteries? You said you were running a K2, and AAA's are only good for maybe half an hour of life when running a K2. 1500mah...
It's not a holder issue. Any holder will work. I built an UltraSound 2.0 powered Obi Wan FX for Seth using a side by side AA holder.
Not yet, bu if Rayovacs work, I don't see why Duracells would not.
Spontaneous turn on, eh? I'll keep an eye out for that one. I usually take the batteries out of my Graflex if it's going to sit for that long since the board still draws power when asleep.
As...
Well welcome to TCSS, Hullbreach. Strydur is the gold standard for customer service, man, rest assured.
Video is live
http://www.youtube.com/user/UltraSWG
As my video will show, there really aren't any problems at all with the board. Youtube is taking a LONG time to process my video.
And hullbreach, my return policy is the same as it's always been,...
Yup, it will be on my channel, I'm uploading now.
It has nothing to do with the batts and holders, really, any batts and holders will work, you don't need Li-Ions or even Lithium primaries. I figured it out, it was really quite simple. The video...
Ok, I did some experiments on 4.5, 6, and 7.2 volts. The results are like I figured, the board actually works like it's supposed to, even on 4.5 volts, you just need consistent power when first...