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Awesome, your son just won all science fairs until the end of time.

Wiring as you've described would make the crystal led always on. If you want the led to mirror the blade you need to wire it exactly like the main LED, positive from battery and negative goes to the...

Finished this up just in time for Halloween but got lazy about taking pictures. Worked on it off and on since February, took a lot of experimentation to get everything to work together. Partial...

As promised here are some pics of the blade plug.

The left piece is the original insert that came with the plug, the middle piece is made of gray translucent acrylic. It has holes because I was...

Thanks!

The plug is from one of the sites that can't be named. I got the plug and a couple covertec clips from there because I liked the details.

I added a piece of acrylic around the plug...

Whew, been a while. Lots to update.

So things were going great...I got to this beautiful saber:
http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag102/solaren/essence23_zpskyc7f2ri.jpg

Then this happened:...

First: Love the design, very similar to one I almost started to make.



Also pretty sure that layout has those two parts meeting in the middle of the LED/heatsink.

I think its a neat idea, but would need a bit of micromanagement/classifications to be successful probably. For instance I wouldn't want to send off a MHS hilt with a NB and get a sink tube...

Welcome!

This is correct, the buckpuck provides a constant current until your battery can no longer support it.



All the parts you need come with MWS wiring, the BuckPuck page I linked previously lists...

Welcome to the forums!

You're going to need either a resistor (cheaper, doesn't come in MWS) or 1000mA BuckPuck (better, especially for swapping LEDs).

Also, the CREE LED modules are far...

Second shipment of parts arrived today! Not pictured, blade material and cap. Still waiting on a Prizm to make it across the pond from Erv.
...

First off, welcome to the party!

You will need to decide on a battery setup before sorting out the specifics of your LEDs, I'm not familiar with what the Obsidian boards require, one of the other...

My first thought was green as well, but I don't think you can get that Boba Fett minty-olive green from an LED or a shade of green that looks good with the hilts paint job.

I'd picture it with a...

The longer one is always recommended if there is room. It is a trade off of better cooling vs saving 1/2 an inch of room and risking burning out the LEDs if the blade is running for extended periods...

Finally worked out the process for a part that was giving me some trouble. I do a lot of woodworking, so I really want to include that in this saber. I've been trying to turn various pieces that I...

Welcome!

It looks like there should be plenty of room for your switches and ports, but the way the heat sink works between the blade holder and your extension the box will need to mounted closer...

Welcome!

That looks great!

Found a source for some 0.47 Ohm resistors and a 1.2 Ohm 1W resistor as well, drawing updated with new values.

You can mount them without the ring from the shop. But you will have to fabricate something similar. I've seen builds that used scrap blade material and pvc. I've done one out of a small disc cut...

Yeah, they are a bit high. The calculator I was using rounded to the nearest common resistor, but unlike the one commonly linked from linear1.org also shows the actual values. The values I got from...

I think this is finally ready to be torn apart, my first wiring diagram for one of these sabers. I was originally planning to use a NB, but with stock unavailable I decided to research the Prizm...

Though it may be great for balance that pommel is probably a big culprit for overall weight.

So, I've had a few false starts on parts of this project since I last posted. Mostly just tinkering to figure some things out, so nothing to really show from that.

Today, I tackled the speaker...