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Type: Posts; User: sgcdialler

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  1. Thanks for the compliments! The emitter is...

    Thanks for the compliments! The emitter is wrapped with 10' of 16 gauge brass craft wire.
  2. New 3D-printed shroud 15 months in the making.

    So I wanted to make a shroud when I initially built this saber in 2015. I had the design sketched up a long time ago but just never got around to making it. I initially tried milling it out of...
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    Perhaps you could post a picture with the...

    Perhaps you could post a picture with the offending piece circled? You may also try posting the same in a thread on the Plecter Labs board at fx-sabers. Erv would know better than anyone.
  4. That sounds like you may have a short somewhere...

    That sounds like you may have a short somewhere in your wiring. Double-check all your connections, make sure that there aren't any contacts or solder-points connecting to each other and that...
  5. That's a hilariously long-winded way to refer to...

    That's a hilariously long-winded way to refer to Madcow, and do I detect a Stargate reference?

    Anyway, it's possible that there is some sort of order that the LEDs are assigned when TCSS makes the...
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    Only a Sith brags about himself. Us Jedi are far...

    Only a Sith brags about himself. Us Jedi are far above that. :P
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    AB21 is a blank, so you can request whatever you...

    AB21 is a blank, so you can request whatever you want in it, or drill+tap it yourself. Just send Tim an email asking about what you want to do.
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    The cone and membrane need to be able to move...

    The cone and membrane need to be able to move freely. I've used a similar solution to mount my speakers (I think) as what you've described. I've milled out an acoustic chamber for the speaker to only...
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    Please verify that the metal parts of the speaker...

    Please verify that the metal parts of the speaker are not shorting on anything inside your hilt. Also, try testing out the soundfiles on your computer to make sure that there isn't a problem with...
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    Well that's the easy part, but without actually...

    Well that's the easy part, but without actually seeing the board and wiring we can't tell if you've got good solder joints connecting everything together, or if you've accidentally crossed a stream...
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    I assume everything else works fine? The board...

    I assume everything else works fine? The board boots and when you press the activation switch you get the appropriate blade sounds? If that's the case, you may not have specified the current values...
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    Try starting with these: gate=40 hswing=150...

    Try starting with these:

    gate=40
    hswing=150
    hclash=500
    hstab=90
    hspin=500

    swing=200
    clash=50
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    It sounds to me like your swing parameter may be...

    It sounds to me like your swing parameter may be set too high (it's too sensitive). Your swing rate flow limiter may also be too sensitive too. What are your swing and hswing parameters set to?
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    It's been a long time since everything has been...

    It's been a long time since everything has been back in stock, I feel your pain. After that long it may not be much consolation, but if an item is still listed in the store, then Tim and the gang are...
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    What do you mean by "double time and off"? Do you...

    What do you mean by "double time and off"? Do you mean the spin sound takes longer than the spin itself to complete?
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    I'd personally recommend using a tri-cree from...

    I'd personally recommend using a tri-cree from the store instead of going the quad-rebel route. Cree's are more efficient, brighter, can be driven harder, and by dropping from 3 to 2 main LEDs you'd...
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    Oh yea, if the MCU is physically damaged then it...

    Oh yea, if the MCU is physically damaged then it would have to be replaced. Plastic bubbles = bad. Yes, it is entirely possible that the teeth were bridged accidentally, given their proximity.
  18. If I remember right, most of the Starkiller...

    If I remember right, most of the Starkiller replicas I've seen have two support struts running up the front. Given that, I'd say you could be well served by going with option #3, and putting...
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    I would recommend keeping the battery connected...

    I would recommend keeping the battery connected via JST, if you have the room in your hilt for it, so that it can be quickly and completely disconnected any time you need to work on the electronics....
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    There's a known issue that can happen sometimes...

    There's a known issue that can happen sometimes when soldering on boards where the battery hasn't been physically disconnected. Because the recharge ports' switch only cuts the negative lead, the...
  21. Well, I normally recommend 700?F as a pretty good...

    Well, I normally recommend 700?F as a pretty good starting temp. That's hot enough to melt the solder but not so hot that it will burn the PCB (not right away at least). The goal of soldering isn't...
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    If you could, please post large, clear pictures...

    If you could, please post large, clear pictures of your wiring, as well as a copy of your config file.
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    So what you're saying is that your config file...

    So what you're saying is that your config file says the following?

    deep=300

    Are you making sure to not touch the saber at all when you're trying to let it go to sleep?
  24. You're essentially correct. The wattage rating of...

    You're essentially correct. The wattage rating of resistors indicates the amount of power they are capable of dissipating before they burn out. Your crystal chamber shouldn't be affected much by the...
  25. The calculator I use is coming up with 1Ω-2W for...

    The calculator I use is coming up with 1Ω-2W for the main LEDs, 47Ω-1/8W for your deep sleep LED, and a 27Ω-1/8W for your crystal chamber LED. Can someone confirm those values?
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