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So where exactly would the buck puck fit into this design?
I just got all the rest of my electronic guts for the main portion of the saber, and I'll be wiring the LED in with my obi wan ROTS sound board (not the one that has the motion sensor and the spring loaded saber blade, the one where if you smack it it has 'force feedback' via its spinning motor and an annoying clash).
I figured I could use the momentary switch to turn on the board and have it do the rest of the leg work too?
Also, I plan to run some EL wiring with the whole setup...but I only have a AA battery souce. I still have a 2khz inverter and 9 volt connector from the first go round with my first saber (Before upgrading it with a momentary switch and new 4khz inveter). Should I connect the EL to the inverter, the inverter to the buck puck, or how would that work?
Basically the EL will be some accent lighting towards the top of the hilt (or bottom).
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Since no one else has replied, I'll take a shot at this. I think you'll have a hard time dong this, as the EL will require at least 9volts. that would burn out the hasbro board in a heartbeat. The only way I can think of to do what you want to do is to have two seperate battery packs, one for the led and Hasbro board, and another 9 volt for the EL wire. You'll also need a seperate switch for each.
As far as the buck buck goes, I'd wire it up to the led leads on the board.
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Ok, so the EL wire for now will be scrapped until much later on if at all.
No biggie.
Which pins on the buck puck get wired to the LED and which get wired to the hasbro?
Thats where I'm lost right now.
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can you run the hasbro board off of 4.8 v's?
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this should be working
Hi, LeMoel
It depends on what type of hasbro card you've got. Mine is running on 4 AA NiMH batteries (1.2V X 4 = 4.8V). Originaly it was a 2004 Obi Wan saber running on 3 AA alcaline batteries (1.5 X 3 = 4,5V). What is yours?
Hope this helps.
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my is the dart vader with 2 C battery
this is the old version??with a big clash sensor??
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If you've got the one who runs on 2 C batteries, then you shouldn't use more than 3.6V (3 AA 1.2V rechargeable batteries ) if you don't want to burn the board.
Is that the one you're talking about?
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Hey sorry for the late reply, i actually dont have one but im looking it to using them,and just wanted to know if you can go with 4.8 or not, so r you saying what ever the toy lightsaber can take for volts is the amount of volts you use?
and i have a question about the 2 c bateries, can you just use 3 volts to power it then? because arent C batteries 1.5 each?
plus how do you use the "clash version then" if you onlt use 3 volts then how is there enough power to run both the board and led?
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Of course you can use 3V as it was running on 2 C batteries. I was just thinking of using rechargeables batteries. But what i meant, you must not use MORE than 3.6V if you don't want to damage the hasbro board.
And I think 3V or even 3.6V is not enough to run a luxeon.
You will have to use 4 AA rechargeable batteries (4.8V) or 3 AA alcaline batteries (4.5V) plus a driver and the hasbro board.
Just tap into the 3rd AA's negative post and use the existing battery pack's + post, thereby only giving the hasbro board 3.6V with rechargeable batteries or 3V with non-rechargeable instead of 4.8V. Essentially, you're tricking the hasbro board into thinking there's only 3 batteries instead of 4. Since the NiMH batteries are 1.2V and non-rechargeables are 1.5V, you won't get EXACTLY what the board is used to, but that's ok. It's used to 3V normally, so 3.6V would be fine.
I hope this makes sense and helps you.