Sunfire - My First Complete Saber

So the Wife and I asked our 9 year old son what he wanted for Christmas, and he responded "when are you going to build my lightsaber?"
Lightsaber it was then.
I've spent about a year fiddling around with what I want for my own personal saber (more ambitious then this was), so I already had a pretty good understanding of what I was getting into with his. (mine is still a WIP)

I must say, the advice of "Start Simple" is VERY SOUND advice. I've learned quite a bit from this build, that I can take into my own (or the next for the Wife's).

Thanks very much to Forgetful Jedi Knight, Silver Serpent, and Strydur, for the guidance through the parts and electronics questions over the year, Madcow for the tutorial videos, especially the Part Alignment tips and the hot Glue for wire stress relief, to Obi1 for general general inspiration, and Yoshi-Taka for general inspiration (with his Brony-Saber series), and the AWESOME Post and video in regards to my Orange Saber Blade question (It really does look like "Sunkist" in person).



I present to you:

Sunfire
I asked my son what color he wanted. He said orange. I asked Blade or Hilt. He said Blade. I asked why. He said "because no one else has orange."
(ok, not Technically true in the Legends Universe, but for a 9 year old looking at the toys and sabers in stores, Orange is unseen)

The majority of the parts were ordered on 11-17-14, with powder coating, and milling services requested. The shipment arrived 12-19-14, leaving precious few available hours to complete before Christmas morn. All the work: fitting, modifications, wiring, soldering, assembly, and tuning were all done over 17 "bench hours" of work, mostly between the hours of 7pm & 4am over a few nights.

Specs:
All MHS Parts with Milling Services & Powder Coating done by Tim (I wanted as few things for ME to do with the limited time frame!)
Custom ordered Red-Amber-White LED from Luxeon, with Red & Amber in parallel as the Main LED, and White as FOC (Thanks Yoshi-Taka!)
Black Short Momentary Orange Ring AV Switch & Recharge Port in Activation Box Style 9
Nano Biscotte v2.0 (with Stock Light Meat & Dark Meat fonts)
TCSS Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module (the 3400mah ones were out of stock when I ordered)
TCSS 2W 28mm Bass Speaker (WOW, that and the NB 2.0 is LOUD!!)
The Chassis was built from a modified "V5 Speaker Mount" and the "Acrylic Chassis Discs for 1.15 ID parts"
A PLI from TCSS in the Fluted Section opposite the Switch Box
A 5mm Orange Accent LED in the Pommel (between the speaker and insert).

The Glams:

https://i.imgur.com/sKxOOhcm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/BtueDBDm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/CS05Ydim.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/NM4p39lm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/92UjEl2m.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/t3p2CSym.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yETBuH9m.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/VD18HTXm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cmVKUqDm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/lB3QXu7m.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XvnQ3cAm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/2YSL9RHm.jpg

(The two blade Pics are with MY 40" blade [My son is using a 32" Trans White, Bullet Tipped Blade], and are at different exposures. The "REAL" color is somewhere in-between, a good "Sunkist [brand soda]" color, not too red, not too yellow)

Select Build Pics:

https://i.imgur.com/NRpXb2Sm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/fCOpNVHm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tIY8dxRm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/8yuCNRJm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2kIHNGbm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/bbhfLcem.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/jGHneGQm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/PdOFXFDm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/K88GBfbm.jpg	https://i.imgur.com/rWWmfNCm.jpg

First Time Building a Chassis & Wiring up a Sound Card. I learned A LOT, particularly, there is a thing as TOO MANY JST Connectors!.
Also, I cannot access the SD Card on the NB 2.0 without completely disassembling the saber (and disconnecting ALL the JSTs!). Lesson learned from that!

Thanks again! :D


Updated the Pics (Ditched "PhotoBucket" and went with "imgur") on 1/17/18

Good job. I'm glad everything worked out for you.

Heck of a saber for a 9 year old. How did he react?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ty_Bomber

Heck of a saber for a 9 year old. How did he react?

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Attachment 10710

I'm sure he'll be wearing it everywhere once I can find my Covertec clip.

The look on both their faces are priceless.

Love the name, love the colours, love the blade, love the shoutout to me, love the thumb screw placement, absolutely love this saber. Definitely glad my advice helped.

I must ask about the last two pictures, with the full blade. Is that the idle blade and the FoC blade? If it is, the FoC colour looks a lot better than I could have expected. It definitely matches the saber's name.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yoshi-Taka

I must ask about the last two pictures, with the full blade. Is that the idle blade and the FoC blade? If it is, the FoC colour looks a lot better than I could have expected. It definitely matches the saber's name.

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No, the last two pics are the normal running color, but at two different camera exposure settings (I was trying to got a pic of the "true" color, and I didn't have a sheet of white paper around :D ).
The FOC is using a white LED, This one at ~1A, and it does quite a good job washing out most of the Orange, creating a very pale orange. When the FOC goes off, I can't help but think "Creamsicle/Dreamcicle".
That is one of the other reasons I want to do a video, it is incredably difficult to time a camera click with a FOC activation!

Added select Build Pics.
I learned SO much with this.

1) Even though I planned to have (what I thought was) plenty of room in the hilt, there really very little when you try and cram all the wires in. I built everything to be disconnected, (the SD card isn't the easiest to get to in this configuration)
2) 26 gauge wire is pretty darn skinny, but JST connectors are HUGE. Next Build, I' sourcing other options, as the length of the JSTs are TOO long. The trick to "wire cram-fu" is using JUST enough wire, and PLANNING on how to store it all (how to get it to "fold in" the hilt without damage, and wasted space). I failed at the Planning part this time...
3) the calculated resistor for the red led was 2.2ohm 2watt. The Store carries a 2.2ohm, 5watt. I now know why they call it the "Big Honking Resistor". I built my LED module to house all the resistors in-line (so I COULD swap out for a properly wired module of a different color, if needed). If it wasn't for the choke, I would have had to re-evaluate the wiring layout (less JST connectors), and "permanently wire some connectors, which I did NOT want to do.
4) I'm still "n00b-ish" at soldering, and I need to do that (especially when on the sound board) NOT at 3am. I eventually ended up with all good solder joints, but it was a pain at the time (because of the time). This is NOT something I will try and do under such a short time frame again!
5) RICE capabilities are a god-send. I've wired up and played with a CF7, and RICE is AWESOME. I had to play with the sound and sensitivity settings on the NB v2 in this build, and it wasn't fun to go back and forth. I'm still not happy with the swing sound performance when a blade is in the hilt. (not quite often enough for my son's swings. FOC is fine though) If it ever HAS to get opened up, I will try and tweak some more, but accessing the card requires 6 wire disconnects, and too much hassle getting the wires out and back in again.

Congratulations, and a nice saber you've - well, he's - got there! The trenched area for the PLI is a nifty idea, and a very nice detail.

Beautiful build! I really like the back end accent light. I don't know if I never noticed it before, but this is the first time I've seen it. I kinda want to rebuild the internals of my first one now to copy that (and for other reasons, namely that I moved to the most boring place on Earth)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigkevin61

No, the last two pics are the normal running color, but at two different camera exposure settings (I was trying to got a pic of the "true" color, and I didn't have a sheet of white paper around :D ).
The FOC is using a white LED, This one at ~1A, and it does quite a good job washing out most of the Orange, creating a very pale orange. When the FOC goes off, I can't help but think "Creamsicle/Dreamcicle".
That is one of the other reasons I want to do a video, it is incredably difficult to time a camera click with a FOC activation!

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Ahh, okay that makes sense. I definitely want to see that creamsicle colour. It sounds delicious.

Nonetheless, a very nice job. The build pics are nice. Glad to see I'm not the only one who cuts the chassis discs to let the wires run between the board and battery.
What did you do with the heat sink that warranted a picture?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yoshi-Taka

Glad to see I'm not the only one who cuts the chassis discs to let the wires run between the board and battery.

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I sanded down the non-SD card side of the chassis, so I could pass the 4 wires through. There was enough space originally for the two speaker wires, but not the accent led as well.
Those discs are surprising easy to modify. On a different build, I used a pair of NB discs for a color extender (I had to wide the opening for the wider board). Turned out pretty good.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yoshi-Taka

What did you do to the heat sink to warrant the picture?

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I had to shorten it to half the length (to the pencil mark). Apparently I didn't take an "after" picture.

Very nice. I think the color combo works very well together along with your choice of blade color. Also looks very solidly built. Great job!

I've said it once, and I'll say it again. I don't like orange. It's my least favorite color. I don't like it in any way shape or form, but....that is one damn fine looking saber.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MandoJoe

I've said it once, and I'll say it again. I don't like orange. It's my least favorite color. I don't like it in any way shape or form, but....that is one damn fine looking saber.

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Thanks! I did build this to be able to swap out for led modules of different colors, if my son ever gets board with orange.
I don't mind the color too much, as I used to play KotOR and it had a crystal, "Heart of the Guardian" that would change the saber blade to orange. (So I spent hours playing a game with an orange blade, and I got used to it!)

If I had to pick a "least favorite" color, I would say probably Cyan. It just looks like a weak blue-ish. (And judging by the amount of cyan blades in the forums, I'd say I'm probably in the minority on that)

Very cool - really diggin' the whole color scheme of that saber!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cannibal869

Very cool - really diggin' the whole color scheme of that saber!

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Thanks!
From a technical standpoint, I'm comfortable with what I think I can do.
My only hesitation is the "color" schemes. In fact, I have all the parts for my own personal saber, but between coordination some final part mods, and deciding what I want/what would look good, I haven't completed it. The only think I know, is I want to avoid a completely "silver" tube!
For this build, after only a few minutes in the online builder, the scheme just came together color and all. I guess I was inspired that day!

Very nice!

Gorgeous, that's one lucky kid you have.

I notice you said you were going to do without the connectors in your next build. Was it really that tough to fit everything in as I was going to use connectors on my build and we talked in the other topic about how our designs are pretty similar in terms of space.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by San Tala

I notice you said you were going to do without the connectors in your next build. Was it really that tough to fit everything in as I was going to use connectors on my build and we talked in the other topic about how our designs are pretty similar in terms of space.

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The original plan for this build did NOT have a choke. It was added solely for internal space (the 5w resistor is Huge!).

In a 1.15"ID part, you have just under 1.04" area (if you were to look at the part from the threaded end).
The JST connectors are not that "wide & high" (.255"x.157") BUT, they are LONG (.94").
I tried (and failed) to cram a recharge port, 16mm short switch (which will take up quite a bit of space @ .627"w x .67" deep in the hilt, takes up .42" of your 1.04"), a 5mm led, 6 JST connectors, a power extender, a dynaohm resistor and the 2.2ohm 5w beast of a resistor, and ALL the wire (26g) into a 4" double fluted extension. Now I had some space in the ribbed section with the battery, but I lost that with the male end of the choke (or originally, Blade holder).
I'm sure with more experience, and a bit more trial and error (I WAS pressed for time), I could have planned it out better (and got a smaller resistor) to reduce space needed. I guess that is what "upgrades" and tinkering later is for!

Here are some pics of the wires as layed out, and at different stages of cram-fu.

Attachment 10740 Attachment 10741 Attachment 10742 Attachment 10743
(apparently I'm Having trouble seeing the pics I attached, I see links and they work fine)

The one thing that is hard to wrap your head around until you are trying to cram, it how to get the wires to "fold in" and "sit" right in the hilt (all the excess wire you need to get the JST connectors OUT of the hilt).

IF I had to do this over, I'd would absolutely work more on that aspect of the build BEFORE soldering everything to the board (I wasn't gonna mess with THAT after it was finished)

Simple but classy. I like!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bigkevin61

Here are some pics of the wires as layed out, and at different stages of cram-fu.

Attachment 10740 Attachment 10741 Attachment 10742 Attachment 10743
(apparently I'm Having trouble seeing the pics I attached, I see links and they work fine)

The one thing that is hard to wrap your head around until you are trying to cram, it how to get the wires to "fold in" and "sit" right in the hilt (all the excess wire you need to get the JST connectors OUT of the hilt).

IF I had to do this over, I'd would absolutely work more on that aspect of the build BEFORE soldering everything to the board (I wasn't gonna mess with THAT after it was finished)

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So with the choke it made it workable. The attachments aren't working for me either unfortunately.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by San Tala

So with the choke it made it workable. The attachments aren't working for me either unfortunately.

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The choke added extra internal space.

I tried to just use the attach picture function on the forum. I'll upload these to photbucket and edit/update my post.

I've visited this thread a few times before but I just gotta say, I love that saber. Awesome choices of powder coating and that blade color is outstanding. Best looking orange I've seen in photos. If it looks that good in real life... you've got a real beauty of a saber.

Really nice job ! :)

I like it ! I'm considering building my own one, so I can imagine how you feel :D

Congrats man !

What were the powder coat colours?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by San Tala

What were the powder coat colours?

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The Pommel and Blade Holder is "Wet Black"
The .0.75" Extension (what the Pommel is attached to) and the 4" Fluted Extension are "Jollipop Copper Orange"
The Ribbed Extension is "Black Chrome"

I am very impressed by the Black Chrome and Wet Black. The Jollipop Copper Orange is ok, but as it is a "Transparent/Semi-Transparent Color" it looks a slight bit different on the Extension opposed to the Flutes (as it shows the slight grooves of the Flutes from the milling work).

Ah, that black chrome looks lovely.

Yeah I'm not seeing the pics either. Hope to see the video soon. He now needs a Jedi costume to kinda match the saber color scheme =]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jedimastergarcia87

Yeah I'm not seeing the pics either. Hope to see the video soon. He now needs a Jedi costume to kinda match the saber color scheme =]

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Ya, I do almost all of my web browsing on my mobile, so loading the pics (and the thumbnails) and setting up the links right, needs to be done on a traditional PC. As of right now, life (with work, I got a promotion because someone left, but we are still a man down; and the kids, between swim team, scouting, and my scout leader roles) have not been conductive to getting that done.

Oh, and for the costume, he WILL be going as a Jedi for Halloween this year (after how much that saber cost!), and we are lucky enough to have a seamstress in the family. She made a cool Jedi costume for him 4-5 years ago, but of course it doesn't fit now (those pesky kids and all their "growing"). So we get to have a new one made this year.

The good news is my son is still digging the saber.
Attachment 10833
His swim team had a "parade" for the younger kids from several clubs at the last event, and his club was Star Wars themed. I kind of wish he got a trooper mask though... And it just goes to show you how awesomely powerful the LEDs are in the Orange vs the Blue (from a MR to the left). This was on the pool deck, which is lit by a whole mess of high powered lights (almost operating room bright).

So, It has been a while since this post was made, and since I've been active on the Forums.

I've had a request for a "build log" and this post is the closest thing I have for this saber, so I switched pic hosting and updated the links on the original post (I ditched photobucket).

Giving this a bump, for that request.

Hey @bigkevin61 ! I know I'm not the build-log requestor, but THANK YOU for switching your pic links and re-sharing SUNFIRE!

I am very glad you did so as your "The Ribbed Extension is "Black Chrome"" is AMAZING! I've been thinking I wanted to try @slothfurnace 's Friction Heat Oxidation Method in the V-Grooves on my Obi-Wan Grafluki Lightsaber's TCSS Ribbed Section after seeing him post up his Entropy Lightsaber, and wondering what the results would look like. And now I have a very good idea of what that will look like thanks to your photos of Sunfire!!!

Thanks again for sharing these photos you made my day!