05 MR Vader - Done & kits available

05 MR Vader Conversion

This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Vader to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.


PARTS LIST:
MR Vader ESB Saber
Conversion Kit
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
Lens Holder
Cree Star LED
Thermal Tape

Optional but recommended
Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_01.jpg


Picture of stock vader.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_02.jpg


Another picture of stock vader.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_03.jpg


Remove the end cap and battery pack.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_04.jpg


Remove the 2 flat head screws and the 2 thumb screws shown by the arrows.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_05.jpg


Remove the phillips head screw shown by the arrow.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_06.jpg


Remove the small pin shown by the arrow. (this can be hard to do without damaging pin).


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_07.jpg


You can now remove the large pin shown by the arrow.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_08.jpg


The two side covers as shown by the arrow can now be removed.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_09.jpg


Remove the two phillips head screws shown by the arrow. (some models may vary in style).

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_10.jpg


Remove the switch cover and then cut the switch wires and push them inside the hole.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_11.jpg


Pry off three plastic wire looking thingys. (these can also be hard to remove without damaging them)


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_12.jpg


You can now remove the blade and electronics assembly from the hilt.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_13.jpg


Remove the two pins shown by the arrows using a hammer and a punch.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_14.jpg


Remove the two pins shown by prying them off with a small screwdriver.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_15.jpg


You can now disassemble the assembly. If your model has the quick disconnect setup as shown in this picture then the following electronics will look different.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_16.jpg


Remove the pin as show by the arrow. The easiest way to do this is to take a small nail punch and push the pin all the way through.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_17.jpg


Remove the led strip from the blade and split the housing to expose the wiring. (your wiring will look different if you have the quick disconnect style blade)

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_18.jpg

Now wire the LED to the heatsink. Now is when you put on the thermal tape (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_19.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_20.jpg

Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED

Gray wire leave alone

Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED

Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_21.jpg

Hook up and test to make sure everything works. Now put the LED assembly to the side for a while.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_22.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_23.jpg


Line up the new holder next to the stock holder as shown by the red line. Simply line up the tops of the two blade holders. Using the back end of the new holder as a guide mark the stock holder as shown by the green line. Cut the stock holder at the marked location.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_24.jpg

From left to right. Remainder of stock blade holder (Save this!), metal blade holder, old blade holder (throw away).

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_25.jpg

Screw the heatsink into the blade holder, along with the optics.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_26.jpg


Take the blade holder and the small section that you just cut. There are three holes on each side of the plastic part. On one side, the holes are not aligned. Line up the large hole on that side with the string of threaded holes on the blade holder. Then take the portion of plastic with the sound board in it and attach it to the blade holder unit. Align it so that the switch wires are opposite the string of threaded holes on the blade holder.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_27.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_28.jpg

Drill a 11/64 hole as shown so that the thumb screw can pass through the hilt. After this smooth out all the holes on the inside of the hilt so the holder will not snag on them.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_29.jpg

Tape the switch wires down, so that they do not snag on the inside of the hilt.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_30.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_31.jpg

Push your new assembly into the hilt and align all the holes. Use the supplied phillips head machine screw to hold the assembly in place. Also, screw in the blade retention screw.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_32.jpg

Pull out the switch wires resolder them to the switch.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_33.jpg

You can now re-install everything in reverse. To reuse the wire looking thingys you will need to grind/file off a portion of them so they will mount flush. The two wires on the left have not been ground, but the one on the right has.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_34.jpg

The completed hilt.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_35.jpg

Looking down inside the emitter.


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/fo...1/vader_36.jpg


Comparison shot of converted with stock blade (on top) and stock setup with a led or two missing (bottom).