Printable View
i just picked up a 2003 MR vader board off ebay, its missing the clash/swing senor. could i use a clash and swing senor off this site? and how would those be wired to the board?also i need the wiring for a dpdt slide switch,my board has the 4 wires for the switch not 2 (this pic is close to the board i have )
Yes the sensors in the store are exactly the same as MR sensors.
The swing sensors are the white cylinders on the board, and the clash sensor wiring is in the text. The other white cylinder on the separate PCB is the stock clash sensor.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...101_5187-1.jpg
;)
my boards different three wire harness
I wodner if we bought from the same place? I picked up a vader mr board a while back for future use. just took it out for a new project and see it has no clash. No harness at all...any way for me to get it to work or is that harness needed?
the little board that you see the clash sensor attached to is NOT needed. You can remove the sensor from the board and wire it directly to the two wires as you see fit, or put it on long wires and mount it somewhere else in the hilt.
Thanks Arkhan!
You don't need the main led harness, either:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/100_5893.jpg
I've taken to removing them altogether, and just soldering the negative lead across the negative pads on the board, bridging them all together:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/100_5894.jpg
The clash sensor can also be soldered directly to the board:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/104_5629.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/104_5630.jpg
You can even bend it forward if you want to:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/100_7076.jpg
I have found that the tiny, thin lead on these sensors is a pain to solder a wire to, and putting it directly on the board is much easier.
As far as the 4 wire switch is concerned, Rhyen Skytracker recently posted this topic concerning the use of one of these boards with an illuminated av switch:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ad.php?t=11171
It may give you an idea of how to wire it to another type of DPDT switch
yea i figured out the power wires,and i saw the diagram for the switch.those boards everyone is posting, i see that the senors are right on the boards. mine has the 3 prong harness
This is great, I just recently purchased a Vader board too.
Thanks for the tips Jay-Gon, I had been wondering if it anyone had tried it that way.
I am assuming the same mods can be made to the Yoda board? (I would just have to compensate for the different lead order.)
Vader - 'Hit', 'Vcc', 'VDD', 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1
Yoda - 'VDD', 'Hit', 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Yours may have had a separate pcb with all of the sensors attached to it....I bet it looks a little something like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by tk427
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/100_8149.jpg
There is no "3 prong harness" on this board though.....The little pcb above the board is the clash/motion sensors. It looks like the motion sensors are wired parallel to each other using the brown and red wires. The clash sensor is wired using the orange and yellow. Polarity really doesn't matter on these, as they are simply switches that temporarily close a circuit.
The switch wiring is exactly as Ryhen posted in his topic.
The other plug has the connection for the speaker and the battery pack. The brown wire there is the board -. The red and orange are the board's +'s. This is wired like this because the saber was originally intended to be an EL and would have had 6 batteries to provide 9 volts, but it was changed to an led blade before release, so the battery pack was wired for 4.5 volts in a 3 + 3 configuration, which gives you two + inputs for the board. Bundle them together, or just use one....it'll work either way.
The green wire is the speaker positive, and the yellow is the speaker the negative.
Yes, you can do that to a Yoda as well, if you have fine enough soldering tip for your iron.Quote:
Originally Posted by ecko