First Saber build.

I have begun to order parts. I am going big with my first build and decided I wanted the CF7.5 which is on the way with a speaker.
I have decided to go with the electronics first and then design the hilt around that. Possibly include a crystal chamber. First hilt will be basic, just to get the guts in it, then go with custom work.
Here are the parts i ordered so far,
*Cf7.5 + speaker ordered separate*
MHS speaker mount V5 - For 28mm Speakers
Stainless 4-40 all thread
Kill plug style 5 (Red)
Acrylic Chassis Disc for PC 2.0 and 18500/18650 pack - S2 (Clear)
Chassis Disc style 1 with holes
Red momentary switch
16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger
Add 2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack
Activation box style 13
JST Male connector 24AWG Red/Black
Brass 4-40 Hex nut
JST Female connector 24AWG Red/Black
JST female connectors with shared ground
Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
Star thermal tape pad
18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
3.5mm R.I.C.E.? Port Style 1

****7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack is the battery i plan to use when it is back in stock.
Other than R.I.C.E cable, Brass tube spacers, resisters, wire and heatshrink tubing and the hilt components, did I miss anything. My goal is to wrap up all the electronics parts i will need when the battery is in stock.
eventually, i will be adding a CeX and PLI
Any help for a new builder will be appreciated.

Second bunch of parts ordered
7.4v Li-ion 1400mAh 18500 Battery Pack
PLI (Power Level Indicator)
USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ cable
26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black)
26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Red)
26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Yellow)
26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (White)
26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Blue)
26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Grey)
270ohm 1/4w resistor
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 4
MHS Heat Sink V3

3rd order
4-40 Button Head
MPS Clip
MPS Insert style 1
MPS Pommel style 4
MHS ribbed extension
2" Double female threaded connector
4" Double female threaded connector

Then i realized i forgot the male/male coupler so i have this in my basket,

Double ended male threaded connector style 1
Covertec Clip
Black machined button for Covertec clip
8-32 x 1/4" socket head
Super Lube Synthetic Grease
8-32 Tap & drill set
Tap handle
Brass 4-40 Hex nut
2" Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer (Clear)
Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack - S3 (Clear)
Chassis Disc style 5
1.5" Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer (Clear)

The hilt right now is planned to be in this order,
Pommel Style 4 - 2 inch double female - 3.7 inch ribbed extension - double male style 1 - 4 inch double female - blade holder style 4
The chassis will be mounted to the disc style 5 between the double male and the 4 inch extension. the switch box style 13 will be on the 4 inch extension.
Still not sure what i will be doing with the PLI.
The hilt is pretty basic, but will teach me a lot that i will be able to use as hands on experience that will serve me when i take the hilt design to the next level with crystal chamber.

Even though you're getting the hilt parts later, you'll need to get the heatsink assembly in order to hook up your main LED.

Thank you for that comment. I wasn't sure if the coppernova needed a heatsink. I was hoping once I had the parts in hand I would figure that part out. I'll add it to my list.
Looking to use this heat sink
MHS Heat Sink V4 (Flat Style)

Chassis Disk 1 locks between male and female threaded parts when the male thread is 0.5"
Chassis Disk 5 locks between male and female threaded parts when the male thread is 0.4"
(most, if not all, male threads are now 0.4")
Chassis Disk 2 has a 1.24" diameter and slides freely in most MHS V1 parts
Speaker Mount V5 has a lip to lock in place between the pommel and the main body
Speaker Mount V4 has no lip and slides freely in most MHS V1 parts

You've got Chassis Disk 1 and the V5 speaker mount, and they might not work with each other.

added the second order of parts

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Generic Jedi

Chassis Disk 1 locks between male and female threaded parts when the male thread is 0.5"
Chassis Disk 5 locks between male and female threaded parts when the male thread is 0.4"
(most, if not all, male threads are now 0.4")
Chassis Disk 2 has a 1.24" diameter and slides freely in most MHS V1 parts
Speaker Mount V5 has a lip to lock in place between the pommel and the main body
Speaker Mount V4 has no lip and slides freely in most MHS V1 parts

You've got Chassis Disk 1 and the V5 speaker mount, and they might not work with each other.

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Thank you for the comment. Worst case, it seems, i might have to drill out the hole in the disk and use the nut on the back of the disk to secure it in place?

First post updated with 3rd and 4th round of parts as well as a better idea of chassis and hilt design. Thoughts, issues?
I realize that my speaker mount will prevent me from opening my hilt to access the chassis. Speaker mount v4 is out of stock now, so i may have to take the dremel to it if the new speaker mount is not back in stock by the time it becomes an issue.

I got the soldering iron out last night and hooked up the speaker, battery and recharge port to the sound board, pulled the kill key and heard it boot up!!!!! Such a small victory is very motivating. Now to start adding switches and LEDs. Then comes the fun of fitting it in the chassis and hilt. Baby steps.....

This saber is coming together. I have the basics down, tested the wiring for most of it and started putting the hilt together. I have a CeX coming tomorrow and will get to wiring it up and fitting the boards in place. I am sure i will be redoing the hilt once i have it all together and go from mild to WILD.

http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...psr6dhgiu1.jpg
http://i380.photobucket.com/albums/o...pslge38seg.jpg

Picked up a used CeX and a blade plug from a friend and finally this order

MHS speaker mount V4 - For 28mm Speakers
9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes
Hilt style 2
8-32 x .3" red thumb screw
1-3/16" ID Black O-ring

Hopefully all that remains is a blade.
I wired it up and built a chassis. I need to make some changes, but it works. Well, most of it. I have some programming to look into to get the color mixing to work correctly but it is getting there.