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in the mist of building my first hilt, i believe i have all the parts except for sound board im waiting on. i have all my leds, lens, holders , speakers, wires, keeppower battery etc. my question is, and its a noob one. how do i hook up the battery to power everything? am i missing a piece? any help would be appriciated . anyways here it is so far, enjoy!Attachment 14012
What sound board are you getting? Read and study the manual, all information is in there. Also since it is printed, most likely fdm since it is a glue up assembly, do not expect to use it for dueling. If the battery is not going to be removeable then a recharge port would be needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by hacknslash21
Edit: looked it up, it is PLA so it is made from a bio-degradable plastic (technically compostable because it requires bacteria...which is carried by your hands) painting will help but be sure to avoid high humidity. I have designed several products specifically for PLA usage, including a series of ballpoint pens that actually use the oils and bacteria from your hands to begin the composting process as soon as you start using them...they even have a paper liner that is impregnated with wild flower seed.
Also based on the apparent build resolution you will have a strength of about 60% what an injection molded ABS hilt would have, so not quite as strong as a Disney store hilt.
Based on the sales images some significant modifications to the blade areas will be needed if you plan on installing LEDs and a blade, since there is only a small "emitter" hole. For a 1" blade you will need a hole 1.0" - 1.08" in diameter with a depth of at least 1.25". The led and heat sink assembly will need an additional 1" diameter by 0.8" depth or more depending on which one you ordered. If you plan on installing the cross blades you will need to assemble their extension tubes that are not on yours at least in the photo. These will be needed to stabilize the small blades and add the retaining screw to each. That being said PLA does not hold (strips easily under load) a thread well so you will need to purchase one threaded brass insert (for Plastic) probably in a 6x32 or 8x32 size for each blade.
If doing it as a display prop with no intentions of putting a polycarbonate blade in it, then you will only need to accommodate the LEDs and the heat sinks, and some blade plugs to diffuse the light so you don't blind someone. If you are only wanting to light it as a shelf prop with no blades, if the "cracked crystal" was printed or cast in clear you could mount the LED below the crystal and project though the crystal into the blade plugs. Base on the apparent space and design of the hilt this might be your best if not only option.
Well looking into it on their Facebook and other sights looks like all examples of lighting the V4, could not find v5 references, simply use a single 5mm LED in each of the blade sections just to give it a red glow. You might have to document and experiment if truely wanting to put the Tri-Cree and other guy's board in this hilt as you mentioned on your other post. Personally I would have went with a Plector board, CF is in stock Prism and PC will probably restock shortly as well and the Trident feature provides the customizable delay for the cross guards that someone said only the other board had.
Though I would definitely sitdown decide on the board for planing purposes, then plan the lighting component placement and how you will fit it in, and attach it to the hilt. Once that is figured out then worry about ordering the soundboard once it is in stock. Hate to have you waist $150 or so on a board that you couldn't utilize because you can't fit the high-output LEDs.
Waiting on igniter 2 sound board. I've been doing as much research as I can