Odd, because a LED *IS* a diode. But I'll give your solution a shot soon and see if I can duplicate your results. I'll also try it with the resistor instead of the Buckpucks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm on Fire
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Odd, because a LED *IS* a diode. But I'll give your solution a shot soon and see if I can duplicate your results. I'll also try it with the resistor instead of the Buckpucks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm on Fire
Interesting... I thought a "rectifier diode" was using to convert AC into DC...
...and thus--I'm not really sure WHY that would solve it?? I mean... I am definitely no electronics guru like Do-Clo or NeoPhyl, but... *IS* there any kind of AC going on with BATTERY powered sabers??
Hmmm... but whatever the case--what works is what works, and if Arm has got a good solution, that rocks & rolls! :D
Nova, Thats just what the package says on it, I think its a typo because the link I posted to the part at Radioshack just calls it a diode. and that is all it is ,just a silicon diode.
sorry if I confused anyone :)
Arm, I tested your solution last night on a resistored saber with a 616. The diode trick does work there as well, although I noticed that in this case it only requires one diode (right before the resistor).
Thanks for the validation DizzyKungFu, I only used 1 myself, right before the pucks.
In the intrum I have had a conversation with Endori about this and his advice was pretty much the same as I suspected, when the puck or resistored LED is shut off it dumps any stored energy back,which I think is what is disrupting the Boards "Power down sequence" so the diode is preventing that from happening, he also suggested putting a capacitor on the power leads of the board to smooth out the voltage.
Huh... it actually took me 2 diodes to do it with parallel Buckpuck wiring (one coming off the battery positive and one right before the Buckpucks). Either one alone didn't seem to cut it. But, like you said, as long as it works, right? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Arm on Fire
If I ever revisit the wiring again, I may try the capacitor idea. But right now, I'm not in any hurry to take my sabers apart AGAIN! If it ain't broke, don't fix it! :p
hi again
so not being in the states and with no access to radio shack..
do u think these would do it? cant seem to find 1.5amp ones.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...ODES.&doy=15m7
it will be going on 1000mah buckpuck with a cyan luxIII
also i will be building a red/o luxIII soon too.
would i need 2 in parrallel to cope with the 2x700 buckpucks ? or one on each puck ?
or like you did it? . im no expert thats for sure.
thnx for the time you guys have put in to try to figure this out.
BTW im on a MRvader soundboard and a luke epIV so its not just the 616 board that does it.
Those look like the same ones I used. I only needed 1 , it depends on how you have it wired. mine is like this..
Battery (+) ----> diode >-----=====puck 1 (+) & puck 2 (+)
Battery (-)----------- ===== puck 1 (-) & puck 2 (-)
thats the best I can explain it with ASCI anyway.
hop. that helps :)
ok ill order some and try, its not like they are gonna break the bank lol
and yes the diagram helps ,thnx again.
I would guess that the mA rating is the maximum current that the component can handle, and could certainly handle less. I don't believe you have to match it exactly to what you're running through. So if I was you, I'd go higher rather than lower (like those 3A ones on that UK site, if they are small enough to fit your setup).