FOC reversed

Printable View

09-10-2015, 01:37 PM
Seancrowne

FOC reversed

Hey everyone I am looking for wiring help on my project I posted earlier about my saber that I have been slowly working on. The hilt is complete and I am about to order either a Luxeon quad rebel WWWW or the LEDengin 10w WWWW , any suggestions on which is brighter? I was looking at the nano biscotte soundboard, and a constant current LED driver. My idea is to run it at 1500mA and have FOC flicker off a light instead of flashing one on, as well as using that LED for static flicker/pulse

My question is how would you power this set up, I am thinking I can only run two of the LEDs off of the sound board and the others in direct with resistor I know I'll need plenty of heat sinks but will I need two 18650s and power the board and driver seperatly? And also how can I reverse the FOC effect so it is always lit or pulsing and flashes off instead on clash.

Thanks for the help this forum has really helped me get to where I am already being new to the saber world.
09-10-2015, 02:34 PM
Cire Yeldarb

Just putting this out there, but have you looked at the Cree XP-L? Its pretty stinkin' bright. And if you simply used that run at ~2000mA (The Nano's Max), you get the constant flicker when the blade is on (set to your parameters), but you can also use the Nano's built-in Flicker on Clash parameters to get a kind of "Reverse Flash on Clash" out of the box. No separate Constant Current Driver needed either, just resistor the LED appropriately.

Just my 2cents
09-10-2015, 02:36 PM
Forgetful Jedi Knight

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cire Yeldarb

Just putting this out there, but have you looked at the Cree XP-L? Its pretty stinkin' bright. And if you simply used that run at ~2000mA (The Nano's Max), you get the constant flicker when the blade is on (set to your parameters), but you can also use the Nano's built-in Flicker on Clash parameters to get a kind of "Reverse Flash on Clash" out of the box. No separate Constant Current Driver needed either, just resistor the LED appropriately.

Just my 2cents

This would probably be the best way to go, though the flicker is different from FoC. ;)
09-10-2015, 03:20 PM
Cire Yeldarb

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

This would probably be the best way to go, though the flicker is different from FoC. ;)

Thanks FJK. But yeah, obviously the flicker is only able to dim or flash the LED Off during a clash, which is pretty much the opposite of FOC... which happens to be what he wants I guess, so it works out lol!
09-10-2015, 03:23 PM
Forgetful Jedi Knight

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cire Yeldarb

Thanks FJK. But yeah, obviously the flicker is only able to dim or flash the LED Off during a clash, which is pretty much the opposite of FOC... which happens to be what he wants I guess, so it works out lol!

You're thinking of the shimmer effect (which works on FoC). Flicker is for the regular blade effects.
09-10-2015, 04:57 PM
Cire Yeldarb

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

You're thinking of the shimmer effect (which works on FoC). Flicker is for the regular blade effects.

Yes, sorry, got my terms all mixed around:
fdrive, flks, and flkd control the standard blade Flickering (whenever the blade is powered on).
shmrd, shmrp, and shmrr control the blade Shimmer (whenever a clash is triggered).
focd, focp, and focr control the FOC effect (if you have it wired up for FOC, and a clash is triggered).

So I guess what I meant to say then as far as the Shimmer went, is that in practice it is more or less the opposite of FOC:
Shimmer dims the light and brightens the light back to normal levels in rapid succession, to create a clash effect.
FOC brightens the light (via a separate LED wired for that) and then dims the light back to normal levels in rapid succession, to create a clash effect.
09-11-2015, 08:21 PM
Seancrowne

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cire Yeldarb

Just putting this out there, but have you looked at the Cree XP-L? Its pretty stinkin' bright. And if you simply used that run at ~2000mA (The Nano's Max), you get the constant flicker when the blade is on (set to your parameters), but you can also use the Nano's built-in Flicker on Clash parameters to get a kind of "Reverse Flash on Clash" out of the box. No separate Constant Current Driver needed either, just resistor the LED appropriately.

Thanks so much, I hadn't seen the cree yet , that's a great set up, 776 off of 2000mA, LEDs have changed since I last played. I just noticed the triple Cree xp, I think I've made my disunion now. This set up does make my life easier, and I like the idea of the shimmer/flicker effect. Best way to see if I'll like it in action is to order one and play with it, I'll let everyone know how it goes, I'm about to dig through the forum and check but has anyone set up triple Cree with the NB?

Also thank FJK I saw your reply to the question about your wwww set up. Still would like to see it.��
09-11-2015, 08:30 PM
Miraluka

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seancrowne

Thanks so much, I hadn't seen the crew yet , that's a great set up, 776 off of 2000mA, LEDs have changed since I last played. I just noticed the triple Cree xp, I think I've made my disunion now. This set up does make my life easier, and I like the idea of the shimmer/flicker effect. Best way to see if I'll like it in action is to play order me and play, I'll let everyone know how it goes, I'm about to dig through the forum and check but has anyone set up triple Cree with the NB?

Also thank FJK I saw your reply to the question about your wwww set up. Still would like to see it.��

If you're looking to use a tri CREE with FoC on the NB, there is information on how to do that in the manual.
09-11-2015, 08:33 PM
Forgetful Jedi Knight

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seancrowne

Thanks so much, I hadn't seen the crew yet , that's a great set up, 776 off of 2000mA, LEDs have changed since I last played. I just noticed the triple Cree xp, I think I've made my disunion now. This set up does make my life easier, and I like the idea of the shimmer/flicker effect. Best way to see if I'll like it in action is to play order me and play, I'll let everyone know how it goes, I'm about to dig through the forum and check but has anyone set up triple Cree with the NB?

Also thank FJK I saw your reply to the question about your wwww set up. Still would like to see it.��

I don't have a WWWW setup. I use "traditional" setups, and the right sound cards for what I want to accomplish. My commentary in the other thread was explaining why it's not a great idea. Many (wrongly) think that "more is better", when in reality, light is subject to the laws of diminishing returns, unless you have an unlimited power source, which you don't, or you are using the proper "items" (right sound card, right battery solution, etc) to PROPERLY handle what you want to do, which again, you weren't. The NB is an "entry level" sound card, designed with certain setups in mind. In your case, you can probably run the XML @ 2A and get a better outcome than what you originally had planned, which while it sounded nice, would have been a bit of nightmare for you to pull off. The XML will have a drawback (no real FoC), but as I try to teach you guys, saber building is a a game of compromises.
09-13-2015, 07:09 PM
Seancrowne

Thanks forgetful you've been such a help, I've been watching tutorials and reading through the forums heavy the last few days and decided to just make a leap and get the crystal focus 7.5 and a tri Cree www set up. The crystal focus offers all the options I want and the manual for it is incredible. Sabers like anything else it seems is you get what you pay for.