1st Build Noob! Checklist

Hey everyone,

My first build, after reading for 2 months. Following the Noob! So You Wanna Build A MHS Saber Huh? tutorial, I want to order the following, but have some questions...

Blade Holder #22
Retention Screw
7" Fluted with Guarded Style Switch Hole
Pommel Style 3, v1
MPS clip
MPS insert 13
Seoul P4 LED & MHS heatsink Module (Green)
Corbin Style Blade, 36"
Momentary Guarded switch
MHS choke style 3

I have a tap and die set, wiring, tubing, solder, eye protection and 3rd hand soldering station from my other hobby.

My main concern with with powering the saber. I have two 3.7v 2600mAH rechargable lithium cells (18650). I can pick up a wired holder at my local shop. Using the LED wizard, I found that if I used one cell with this setup, I would need a 1 ohm resistor. (brown black gold)

The P4 says 1000mAH max. I really dont want to pop anyting, but I would think that the resistor would prevent this. Anyone concur?

I use LEDs all the time in my HO scale train hobby, but I don't use batteries. I usually use track power.

Thanks for looking and any helpful hints.

DeckRoid

Quote:

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Originally Posted by deckroid

Hey everyone,

My first build, after reading for 2 months. Following the Noob! So You Wanna Build A MHS Saber Huh? tutorial, I want to order the following, but have some questions...

Blade Holder #22
Retention Screw
7" Fluted with Guarded Style Switch Hole
Pommel Style 3, v1
MPS clip
MPS insert 13
Seoul P4 LED & MHS heatsink Module (Green)
Corbin Style Blade, 36"
Momentary Guarded switch
MHS choke style 3

I have a tap and die set, wiring, tubing, solder, eye protection and 3rd hand soldering station from my other hobby.

My main concern with with powering the saber. I have two 3.7v 2600mAH rechargable lithium cells (18650). I can pick up a wired holder at my local shop. Using the LED wizard, I found that if I used one cell with this setup, I would need a 1 ohm resistor. (brown black gold)

The P4 says 1000mAH max. I really dont want to pop anyting, but I would think that the resistor would prevent this. Anyone concur?

I use LEDs all the time in my HO scale train hobby, but I don't use batteries. I usually use track power.

Thanks for looking and any helpful hints.

DeckRoid

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First off, Welcome to the Forums.

If you are not using a soundcard, you'll be able to get by with just one 18650 battery. It's the voltage, not the current that tends to pop a LED. The voltage of a 18650 Li-ion is 3.7 and the forward voltage of a green is around (plus/minus) 3.7V as well. a 1ohm, 1W resistor would be fine for you. ;)

Good Luck!

Thanks!
I might add sound later. I want to build this one first though. Foot in the door kinda thing.

Your parts list shows a momentary switch. For a straightforward stunt saber like this you actually need a latching switch, otherwise you will need to hold the button down the whole time. :D

D'OH! :oops:

Well, that's just a bit of a bummer. Already ordered my parts. Oh, well. The first of many mistakes, I am sure! I will order one.

Don't feel bad... I think I have yet to place an order where I didn't forget something or got the wrong thing. :)

The way I see it, you will now have the needed momentary switch for when you add sound, so you are actually ahead of the game!

Thanks, TrypWyr.

Actually, now that I look at LED supply houses and sound, I am already planning on a second saber before the parts of my 1st even arrives! :LOL:

I am looking at an LED that has 3000 lumens!!! holy cow, that'd brighten a blade. Of course with sound and what not, I will have to have a 10 volt battery pack, which would pretty much mean wiring in a recharge port... aahhh....

Hello. My name is DeckRoid. I am a saber addict.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by deckroid

Hello. My name is DeckRoid. I am a saber addict.

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Forum Crowd: Hi DeckRoid


Lol, it happens fast doesn't it. I'm just almost done with my first PC saber, and I'm already planing my next.