2009 Hasbro anakin clonewars clearblade

Hello,

Let me start by first off saying I have looked through most of the hasbro sound threads and have tried to read up as much as I can on saber building. I hope to one day get a real soundcard for my saber builds.

If this particular hasbro board had already been described in another thread, please tell me where, and the rest of this thread can be ignored. This is the saber with a clear blade and changes color from blue to red with a switch attached to main board. It runs on 3 AA cell batteries.

I purchased a lot of 3 lightsabers on ebay. Got em real cheap because they were not working. They are all working now , but with some issues.

Attachment 14772


Attached are photos of the board and close ups.

Attachment 14773Attachment 14774Attachment 14775

I've got it mostly figured out. Just wondering if that small cylindar by the switch and caps on the main board is the clash sensor. If so I assume that the one attached to the LED array is the swing sensor(not working well).

I plan on replacing the array with an ultra bright blue LED I picked up locally that requires 1 watt. I hope to change out the speaker as well.

It looks like the transistor is set up with the switch to change between the two diffent LED circuits. With only one LED this would be useless, could the switch and transistor be removed /bypassed?

Or should I put two different LED's ? Could I just attach the two leads to the one LED?

I haven't even touched a meter to it yet. I was hoping someone has already completed a build with this board.

Anyhow thanks for any help,

Well I did some more reading and it seems everyone has been advised to avoid this particular saber as it doesn't have all the sounds..... .

As well the forward voltage for the LED is 3-3.5 watt with an output of 1 Watt. I have a heat sink for it.

Can anyone tell me which is the anode and cathode on the LED?
It isn't marked, only a rectangle cutout on one of the leads and a semi-circle with a spike on the other.

Cheers


EDIT: never mind. Got it working.

Here it is after re -wiring and mounting the clash sensor and LED to the film canister. (LED on inside)

I still have to connect the Clash sensor up. It is possible to make a clash on demand by using a momentary switch.

I replaced the silicon bubble switch with a tiny tactile switch. It should fit inside my homemade red button.


The speaker is the original, at first I wasn't happy with it, but after testing it inside the sink tube, it resonates nicely , just a little bit sithy though.

Here it is just before I throw it into the microwave for shrink wrap!

Attachment 14777

Edit1: the tactile switch is hovering above the speaker, not attached to it.

Edit2: This is going into a Canadian microwave. Because of licensing etc, real American microwaves are banned in Canada. Canadian microwaves work by sucking the cold out of the food, as oppose to energizing it. The excess cold is then vented outside (why it drops 20 degrees above the border). Alaska has been trying to stop Canadian microwaves, as they change a normally tropical Alaskan climate into a frigid one.