Insulating speaker contacts in tight spaces

Looking for advice on options for very thin insulating topical treatment...I have insulated contacts with the standard heat shrink, and in some wire control situations, hot glue...curious if other have creative alternatives. I am building the Korbanth OWK, and the 22mm bass speaker fits perfectly in the vented pommel, but has the contacts on the sides, so they can touch the metal and conduct through the hilt. No room between the seat in the pommel and speaker to print a holder or heat shrink...I was thinking of a thin layer of something non conductive (e6k maybe?) so it would still fit, but not short on the pommel.
This hilt is so much smaller than anything else I have seen that there are lots of new challenges to tackle...so far I was successful on installing the main switch and the aux through the brass thumb screw (which was very fun to build)...now trying to fit the prism and the best speaker that I can...I put the 20mm speaker in a DM1 and it sounds terrible...did the 22mm in the second half of the Dm1 and it’s actually very loud.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

E6000 or Liquid Electrical Tape? That might work. Your shrink should be sufficient. If the contacts are exposed through the chassis, just put a bit of liquid electrical tape over them.

Tom

Thanks again Tom...didn’t even know liquid electrical tape existed! Definitely need for this build as the 22mm speaker just fits in the little groove in the bottom of the OWK pommel, and the contacts go up the sides of the speaker case a bit..no room for anything but a bit of glue...should be all set!

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Originally Posted by scott

Thanks again Tom...didn’t even know liquid electrical tape existed! Definitely need for this build as the 22mm speaker just fits in the little groove in the bottom of the OWK pommel, and the contacts go up the sides of the speaker case a bit..no room for anything but a bit of glue...should be all set!

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You can find it at almost any hardware store. I don't use it very often, but there are some things that it works well on, and this might be one of those rare instances.

Tom

if there is enough room you could also try PVC heat shrink, it will thinner and tougher than the normal polyolefin stuff, but also less grippy. It's what is typically used on batteries.

Thanks jbkuma, not sure if you have come across the OWK kit, but it is SMALL inside! I recently did a DM1 and if you print your own chassis, it is like 30% bigger inside than the OWK. I could definitely fit pvc shrink, or even just embed the speaker in the pla chassis that I printed if I went with the 20mm, but I really think that one is way too quiet. I will post some pics wherever I am supposed to on the forum after I get everything situated to show how tight the fit is! Sounds like a new version is coming out later this year that solves for some of the tight fit issues...hopefully also provides a stock solution for the aux button...I was able to do it, but had to drill through the brass screw, build a custom rig to hold a tactile switch and glue a river to it...super fun puzzle, but no margin for error!

River=rivet! Cut the pin from a rivet down and e6k it to the rig and the jewel cap.

sounds familiar, on the aux button jewel fiasco. Been there, done that.

Hopefully the solution worked well in your case Tom! The mechanics internally are great, and the rivet is secure - still thinking through a way to have the jewel be secure beyond just gluing it to the top of the rivet.

Finished up, and all works perfectly. Big time thanks, and plug for liquid electrical tape. I used to insulate the speaker contacts and used on the inside of the inner tube since it was so tight and the Prism couldn't fit inside a chassis inside that tube! Here is what the solution looked like.Attachment 17475Attachment 17474