07-09 MR and HFX Yoda AOTC - Done & kits available

This tutorial will show you how to convert your Hasbro or Master Replicas Yoda FX lightsaber to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that Tim offers. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. Tim makes no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can NOT reuse the stock MR blade. You must use a 1" blade from the store. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.

Parts List
MR/Hasbro Yoda Saber
Conversion Kit
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
Lens Holder
Rebel Star LED
Thermal Tape

First, we need to dis-assemble the Saber without demolishing the Clash sensor.

Here are the parts I will use, the main hilt and the Luxeon K2 and optics
NOTE: To do this conversion with a Luxeon 3 or a P4, wire it the SAME way.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1396.jpg

First thing to do is remove the battery pack, pommel and black decorative screw:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1397.jpg

Next, use a probe or small screw driver to remove the plastic switch plate. BE CAREFUL! Just run the probe under the plate and it will loosen.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1398.jpg

When it is off it looks like this. The next step is to remove the two screws pictured and then the box pops right off!

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1399.jpg
There is one set screw left (pictured), so go ahead and remove it.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1400.jpg

Then slide the "clamp" forward. Now you can see both set "Pins" that must be removed:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1401.jpg

The pin closest to the switch hole can be driven through with a nail-set, but the one closer to the emitter MUST BE DRILLED OUT! This is where we spare the clash sensor, so if you FUBAR this...bye bye clash!:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1402.jpg

With both Pins out the hilt should look like this:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1404.jpg

Next, slide the electronics module out (pix 1) and locate the set pins (pix 2)

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1405.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1406.jpg

Drive the pins out and unplug the wiring harness form the board (I use a roll of duct tape when I drive my pins out to support the blade/module):

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1407.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1408.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1409.jpg

If you drilled the Pin out far enough, the plastic Blade holder will slide right off to reveal another small set pin..drive it inside the plastic piece and the plastic piece pops apart to reveal your intact clash sensor! (pix 2):

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1410.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1411.jpg

Elevate the sensor from the LED strip and clip the 2 attachments and the colored wires:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1415.jpg

Next, solder your leads to the LED and slide them through the heatsink (pix 1), attach the optics and screw the LED/optics and heatsink into the aluminum BH (Pix2):
Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1416.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1417.jpg

Next trim the 2 "tabs" from the electronics module like this:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1418.jpg

Now I will jump ahead to the soldered wiring harness. The clash wire (purple) attaches to the clash sensor, the Vdd wire (+) attaches to the other leg of the clash and the LED (+). The other colored wires are bundled and all soldered to the LED (-). MAKE SURE TO HEATSHRINK EVERY CONNECTION! Electrical tape is NOT acceptable!

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1422.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1423.jpg

This is a great time to test everything!

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1424.jpg

Now youget to use a little scotch tape! Tuck the wire into the Soundboard module and the clash sensor as well. I tuck the clash under the board and the other wires above the board. Then apply 2 small pieces of scotch tape like this (to keep the module and BH aligned!):

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1425.jpg

Then slide re-attach the shroud and black plastic spacer and slide the entire module into the hilt, it only fits one way so don't stress out!:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1426.jpg

The screw holes should line up perfectly, so insert the phillip's head set screw that came with the kit and the set screw that holds the "clamp" in place (pix 1) Then re-attach the activator box and replace the 2 screws (pix 2):

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1428.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1429.jpg

Now pop the cosmetic switch plate bake into place (pix 1), reinsert the battery pack, pommel and black plastic cosmetic screw (pix 2):

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1430.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1431.jpg

Test it one final time!

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1432.jpg

That's it!

This is what you get when you are done:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1435.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1436.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1438.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1441.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1443.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...n/100_1445.jpg