Normally recharge ports and "kill keys" are used when using sound boards. It allows for easy recharge of the saber, without having to take them apart to change batteries, and also will prevent the draining of a battery pack when not in use. ;)
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well I wired it up to not use a kill key, I am mainly worried about somthing happening and burning down the house if it is left pluged in, as a show piece on the wall. >< Let me know if I really should just throw that idea away and redo the wiring.(I dont even want to think about redoing that at the moment)
When I went to put it all together I just noticed that the battery pack with the batteries in it would not slide into the grenade grip I had >< (I had only tested it with an empty pack) I tried to dremmel it and hollow it out enough but that was a no go, it did work a little but not enough. So yeah I had to add a few extentions I had for another saber to it. so it is a little longer then planed and it might not look right with the short blade.
Attachment 8367Attachment 8368Attachment 8369Attachment 8370Attachment 8371 - Wiring
Attachment 8372Attachment 8373Attachment 8374Attachment 8375 - More Shots
PS: >< >< >< >< >< I droped the saber right before I made these posts........ looks like it broke the switch becuase it wont stay pressed in now >< >< ><
and not really worth another thread I doubt but here are some shots of some weathering practice on a hilt that the threads got messed up on. gonna weather my next project somehow.
Attachment 8377Attachment 8378Attachment 8379Attachment 8380Attachment 8381 - Weathering
Kenan,
If you plan to have to always plugged in for show, do you even need the batteries at all? Just thinking out loud on this.
If you do need/want the batteries, you will find the pre-made Li-Ion pack is a little smaller: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74...Pack-P698.aspx. I just tested this in a grenade extension, and it does fit. So this as an option.