Successful MR Luke ROTJ Conversion! (Pictures)

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05-02-2017, 12:43 PM
iheartoptimusprime

Successful MR Luke ROTJ Conversion! (Pictures)
Just came here to show off my Luke ROTJ conversion. This was my first saber conversion, and definitely had some learning moments, but I didn't screw anything up too badly!

First, pictures!

http://i.imgur.com/ei30AqL.jpg

Taking apart the hilt

http://i.imgur.com/j38ykae.jpg

Completed hilt side view

http://i.imgur.com/NUtMZSX.jpg

Completed hilt vertical view

http://i.imgur.com/X9BBVsL.jpg

Lights off

http://i.imgur.com/5MIMPsv.jpg

Dim lighting

Parts used:
- TCSS Luke ROTJ Conversion Kit
- Cree XP-E2 Green LED
- TCSS 8.7 Degree Lens
- TCSS Lens Holder
- TCSS Thermal Tape
- TCSS Brass 8/32 Thumbscrew
- TCCSS Drill and Tap Set (8/32)
- Heatshrink
- Wire
- Ultrasabers 36" Heavy Grade Blade (had a spare laying around)
Tools Used:
- Cordless Drill (For drilling the retention screw hole and tapping the hole)
- Hacksaw (For cutting the stock MR blade holder)
- Needlenose Pliers (Stripping wire and removing pins)
- Soldering Iron (for the LED)
I followed the stickied thread about the Luke ROTJ saber, and it's pretty on-point. The one thing I would mention is that if you're using TCSS LED, the sink pads are awesome, but I'd recommend cleaning the sink pad with a small bit of rubbing alcohol prior to soldering leads onto the LED. At first, I could not get the solder to stick to the sinkpad, but after cleaning the sinkpad it worked like a charm.

TCSS's kit is wonderful, and I'd highly recommend picking one up if you are at all interested in converting your MR Luke ROTJ saber. Mine originally had the top third of the blade LEDs dead due to a rather intense duel, and now you can't even tell there's not a string blade in the saber, in regards to brightness. You do lose the "phase effect" for power on/off, but it's a small price to pay for a more durable saber with an intensely brighter blade.

Also, my blade is a HG blade from Ultrasabers, so the blade is thicker, thus reducing brightness. I'll try to get some pictures with a MG blade and Ultraedge blade later today for comparison, as well as some daylight pictures.

SIDE NOTE: for 1-inch blades, the TCSS blade holder is an *INCREDIBLY* snug fit, so unless you're dueling, you might not even need to drill the retention screw hole, if that's something you're worried about (I don't have a drill press, but I just eye-balled it with the cordless and did fine). If you're just using the saber for display, you can get away with no retention screw. Mine stays in place with no wobble whatsoever. YRMV.
05-02-2017, 01:29 PM
Jay-gon Jinn

Blades from that manufacturer always run slightly larger than 1". TCSS blades are a perfect in the blade socket.
11-06-2023, 06:30 AM
maverick96

Hello. I know this is a old thread but I am looking at converting my MR 2005 Luke ROTJ LED but keeping the original blade. I did order the TCSS blade holder. So if I use the original blade I can get away without having to add a retention screw? If not, when I drill the hole do I need to drill into the actual blade or just the hilt/blade holder? This will be for display only.

Thanks from a noob!
11-07-2023, 03:03 PM
Forgetful Jedi Knight

The original blade is a string blade of some type as I recall. I don’t think your going to able to salvage that.
11-09-2023, 03:56 PM
Jay-gon Jinn

Quote:

Originally Posted by maverick96

Hello. I know this is a old thread but I am looking at converting my MR 2005 Luke ROTJ LED but keeping the original blade. I did order the TCSS blade holder. So if I use the original blade I can get away without having to add a retention screw? If not, when I drill the hole do I need to drill into the actual blade or just the hilt/blade holder? This will be for display only.

Thanks from a noob!

I recall re-using the original blade on a few conversions I did back in the day, and they never looked as good as the TCSS replacement blades. The diffuser inside those blades is usually attached to the blade tip, and the tip is not going to light up very well. Either way, you do not drill into the blade itself, just into the emitter/holder for the screw. The screw will press against the side of the blade, applying pressure to the circumference of the blade against the inside of the socket. Only one screw required, too.
11-10-2023, 05:23 AM
maverick96

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn

I recall re-using the original blade on a few conversions I did back in the day, and they never looked as good as the TCSS replacement blades. The diffuser inside those blades is usually attached to the blade tip, and the tip is not going to light up very well. Either way, you do not drill into the blade itself, just into the emitter/holder for the screw. The screw will press against the side of the blade, applying pressure to the circumference of the blade against the inside of the socket. Only one screw required, too.

Ok. So its more of an issue of light diffusion. Cool. I will probably look into a new blade then. Is the 36' TCSS baselit "standard clear" a good option?
11-10-2023, 08:00 PM
Jay-gon Jinn

Quote:

Originally Posted by maverick96

Ok. So its more of an issue of light diffusion. Cool. I will probably look into a new blade then. Is the 36' TCSS baselit "standard clear" a good option?

Yes, that would work well with it. I would go with the thin-walled show blade, since you aren't going to use it for dueling. This one: https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/T...1-OD-P450.aspx
12-04-2023, 09:09 AM
maverick96

Thank you for your help!