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Ah, my mistake, I confused myself, there are two GND's, but they lead to the same SIP.
So, Aux to board positive and Act to board Act and GND to board negative? Reading the NB manual is a little confusing at this point.
I did have an image, but it doesn't appear to be working, I've tried loads of versions but none will display.
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I didnt read this whole thread so if this is out of place I apologize. But NB doesn't support the use of an Aux switch...
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Ah.
Okay, well that is disappointing, but saves on some soldering I guess :)
I was following the manual for Dimitri Shtok's MK-NB chassis, which never says that this wiring won't work with an NB so I was a little wayward on that one.
However, this now means that my diagram is pretty much correct as it is. Act & Board Negative is all I need to worry about.
I was expecting some glaring errors for my first build, but so far, if this is the only one, I'm a happy man.
Thanks for the heads up @darth_chasm
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Oops, I missed the NBIV, yep, only activation switch on the NBIV. Good catch DC.
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So, I've just done some more work.
The Accent LED;
https://i.ibb.co/thTLjkz/20191110-115350.jpg https://i.ibb.co/BZ2494F/20191110-115419.jpg
The switch (without Aux ha!)
https://i.ibb.co/Ytxn99X/20191110-123802.jpg
And the reason why I've stopped for today, the resistors on the hilt side blade board;
https://i.ibb.co/4Nb8vyH/20191110-132532.jpg
The reason why I stopped was due to the resistors. I bought the board pre-built, i.e. the pins were soldered for me. However, the resistors (due to having several different configurations) aren't included on that. I've spent about 30 mins trying to solder those two damn things on the board.
I can get a reading across one, but not the other, so now I'm worried that I've burnt the board out from over soldering, or some other, equally nasty reason. Guess I'll just have to wait and see.
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Without seeing a macro view of this photo, the soldering of your SMD resistors look pretty good. You may have burned a resistor or had a bad one. I have had a couple bad resistors that I couldn't get a reading across before I soldered. Did you test the resistor prior to soldering it? If not, replace with a new one. I order these in bulk from online suppliers, they come in strips. If need be, I can send you one, or you could use an in-line larger resistor legs to those pads.
Tom
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Ah, so that can happen? I thought I may have burnt the first I used, so I binned it, the second, I did test prior to soldering, and it registered, so I may have to try again.
I'm mainly concerned that I've "melted" some of the plastic of the board over the pad and that's why it's not working. I guess my technique needs work lol.
Also, these are 330R's so when I test them, should I see 330 across or not? I get about 160-180 on the one that does register a resistance. I presume it would depend on the voltage, but my multimeter has a 9V battery in it, so that should be enough, no?
**edit** My multimeter was snagged on the wrong setting. I'm getting 330 on each now. I did have to "tweak" the soldering of the one SMD, so now I'm happy :)
Just so damn fiddly!! lol :)
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So, I'm sitting here surrounded by my blade and I've come across a query.
As I'm using the NBv4, I don't have an Aux function, as you've kindly pointed out. So, I will still need the PEX for the FOC yes? But it's the blade lock-up function I've not got, correct?
My second question is related to Rudy Pando's CC. I have 2 Pos & 2 Neg & 1 Data coming from the hilt PCB. I don't think I can get the 5 wires through the small brass tubes of the CC. So, should I splice the 2 Pos & 2 Negs together to reduce that to 3 wires through the CC?
What do you think?
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Hi All,
I know it's been a while, but I had a lot of work on, then Christmas to deal with so I've not been "Sabering" too much :)
Anyway, I was going to work on it this weekend, but I am REALLY paranoid that my wiring is just not going to work. So I'm posting one version which is the original with spliced joints, and another with individual connections to the NB pads. The second is a work based on feedback i've received from various forums whereby each connection should have it's own dedicated wire to the board, but for some reason it makes me think that the circuit connections won't connect properly.
I would really like someone to give me their opinion on it if possible?
https://i.ibb.co/Tcd5X1w/Lightsaber-Diagram-PEX-01.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/bsCv6QF/Lightsaber-...eparate-01.png
What do you think?