Physical dimensions of speaker mount v6

First-time saber builder here -- hoping to cobble a pair of dueling sabers together for my godson and his older brother. Looks as though this ----> http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P892.aspx

...would be the best and easiest way for me to go. I don't think I'm quite up to this custom chassis jazz, so having an integrated speaker/battery pack/sound card mount looks the most user-friendly alternative. It says it's supposed to fit in any MHS piece 5" or longer. Fine and dandy. But what if you've got a blade holder on one end? and the heat sink is protruding into that section? Even if it fit, wouldn't the heat sink eventually melt/deform the plastic the mount is made out of? Or a choke, which also takes up a bit of internal space? I've been fiddling around with various builds on the MHS saber builder and looking at the internal views, and this puzzles me.

How long *is* blade holder v6, exactly?

I think you mean how long is the Speaker mount v6. I would guess it's not longer than 3 1/2" though you really need to PM Strydur for sure to get the answer.

As far as your other question goes, it all depends. It depends on which LED we are talking about here, and which heat sink, etc . etc. If you post your planned design, we could probably better help you out. You also need to plan for a switch. If you use a standard body section (which is 7" long), you should be fine.

IIRC fitting a 5" extension would mean the speaker holder is no more then 4". BH6 adds a standard 2 inches to the outer length of your build. Anytime the dimensions are missing on parts you might find them in the MHS builder and view internal for ID. It might not be exact but close enough to give you a good estimate.

The heatsink shouldn't get hot enough to damage the plastic.

OK. With that design you should be fine. The chassis will fit within the 5" section. The only thing you need to really concern yourself with is where you are going to place the activation switch.

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Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

I think you mean how long is the Speaker mount v6.

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/facepalm

Yes, that's what I meant all right.

Here's the internal view of the one that's got me concerned. I know, I know -- the simplest route for the novice saber builder (me) is to simply use a standard 7" handle... but this one is for a 13-year old, and as such I want it to be easy for him to hold. Hence the #7 pommel and the ribbed extension, which I plan on adding black rubber O-rings to (possibly with a dinky bit of epoxy to make sure they don;t go anywhere.) But you see that the pommel and extension both extrude themselves within the 5" section, and I'm not sure what that'll do to the design in Real Life. If I swap the ribbed and plain extensions around, then the heat sink projects inside the 5" plain tube and I've got even *less* space, plus heat to worry about.

Having never seen any of the parts in question, I'm more or less shooting blanks here.

Attachment 9730

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rivenshield

/facepalm

Yes, that's what I meant all right.

Here's the internal view of the one that's got me concerned. I know, I know -- the simplest route for the novice saber builder (me) is to simply use a standard 7" handle... but this one is for a 13-year old, and as such I want it to be easy for him to hold. Hence the #7 pommel and the ribbed extension, which I plan on adding black rubber O-rings to (possibly with a dinky bit of epoxy to make sure they don;t go anywhere.) But you see that the pommel and extension both extrude themselves within the 5" section, and I'm not sure what that'll do to the design in Real Life. If I swap the ribbed and plain extensions around, then the heat sink projects inside the 5" plain tube and I've got even *less* space, plus heat to worry about.

Having never seen any of the parts in question, I'm more or less shooting blanks here.

Attachment 9730

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OK. With that design you should be fine. The chassis will fit within the 5" section. The only thing you need to really concern yourself with is where you are going to place the activation switch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

The only thing you need to really concern yourself with is where you are going to place the activation switch.

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/fidget

I'd thought I would put it in the 5" MHS extension, along with everything else. Will that not work? A big goony-bird switch box will make it difficult for Matthew to wrap his mitts around the thing; and if I put it on the ribbed extension that puts the kibosh on the nice cushy rubber O-rings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rivenshield

/fidget

I'd thought I would put it in the 5" MHS extension, along with everything else. Will that not work? A big goony-bird switch box will make it difficult for Matthew to wrap his mitts around the thing; and if I put it on the ribbed extension that puts the kibosh on the nice cushy rubber O-rings.

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Well, why don't you try my suggestion of a 7" main body piece, a blade holder and a pommel. no box, no muss, no fuss. See how that works? ;) And if you pick the right main section, you can still do the o-rings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

Well, why don't you try my suggestion of a 7" main body piece, a blade holder and a pommel. no box, no muss, no fuss. See how that works? ;) And if you pick the right main section, you can still do the o-rings.

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Which one? #2, #3, and #4 all have very shallow grooves suitable for color-contrasting powder coating, but they won't hold an O-ring. Will they? The advertising blub tells me they 'are a perfect fit for the ribbed MHS section.' And naught else, presumably.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rivenshield

Which one? #2, #3, and #4 all have very shallow grooves suitable for color-contrasting powder coating, but they won't hold an O-ring. Will they? The advertising blub tells me they 'are a perfect fit for the ribbed MHS section.' And naught else, presumably.

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You can use #3 with o rings. You'll need a lot of them, but it is do-able.