First saber, basic components to experiment with electronics

I am new to the custom saber scene and it is just amazing how many custom saber products are out there. I have had an Obi Wan ROTS costume for a few years now and only a crappy extendable non-light up saber. I'm thinking of joining the Rebel Legion in my area and want to upgrade my saber. I'm starting off small, then going to go for an Obi Wan Kenobi ROTS replica or extravagant custom. The sound cards are pricey and I am a hobby PCB and arduino programmer so plan to build the soundcard myself with the help of some DIY libraries (LightsaberOS, FX-SaberOS, USaber).

Can you experienced saber builders look over this simple build to see if I am missing or overlooking something? I have a drill and tap set for the covertec and blade set screw, do I only need one and what size is common? How much space do I have for the electronics?

Main
Hilt style 5 (2x recessed 16mm AV holes)
Pommel style 5
MPS insert 1 (+ clip)
Blade holder style 4
36" battle blade ""TCSS" style
Black machined covertec clip
(Is there a blank heatsink module available for using other led?)

Chassis (Eventually want to get/make something similar to this or this)
MHS speaker mount v5
Chassis disc for PC/18650
2x 3/16" brass tube (cut to size)
2x 4-40 threaded (cut to size)
4-40 nuts
2.1mm power jack

Electronics (For basic lights - sound to be added at later date)
18650 battery
28mm bass speaker
4x JST sets
1A 3.7V LED driver (later: Teensy or Nano+DFPlayer, MPU6050, NMOS)
2x 16mm momentary AV switches


My main concern is fitting all the electronics in it. Is there space within the pommel for a recharge port?

I haven't checked your hilt parts. When you purchase the bladeholder, there should be an option to include the heatsink/LED Module with it. The TCSS heatsinks/LED modules are pretty compatible with most star LEDs'. If you're just building a stunt MHS with no sound, why not just build a cheap battery holder sled? Some pommel end cap inserts have space for a recharge port; however, if you plan on eventually adding sound, you may not want to go that route. Do you not want a recharge port on your hilt? You could drill/order drill service for the recharge port in your hilt. Some people don't like the extra hole in hilt. You can build a chassis that includes a recharge port inside and within the chassis. TCSS has chassis disks specifically for their 2.1 mm recharge port.

I don't know how big the board you are building will be, but looking at your build parts, Main Body style 5 is 7" long. If you drill your switches in line, you will certainly reduce your usable hilt space. I built my Mako saber. I used a tactile switch, in tactile switch ring (inside hilt), 12mm lighted av switch, and recharge port all inline with each other. I have 1/2 inch to spare in the hilt with those 3 components drilled inline. I used a 18650 with a chassis system similar to what you have planned above. I used 2 metal disks at head of chassis to secure through hilt with a set screw. My metal disks were at the top of the chassis, the portion which sat closest to my recharge port, switches. Like I said, I had 1/2 inch to spare in that set up. I don't think you have room to do 16mm, 16mm, and recharge port inline on your main body, and then fit the chassis in there. Maybe reduce the switch size?

If you watch madcow's videos, he often encourages new builders to build your chassis system first, so that you know how long its going to be, and then you can plan your build around the chassis system. This way, you'll know how much room you'll have to develop your switch plan.

I hope this helps some, I've had to figure a bunch of this stuff out watching youtubes! Good luck!!

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Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon

I hope this helps some, I've had to figure a bunch of this stuff out watching youtubes! Good luck!!

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Thanks! That was very helpful. The board sizes I am looking at are similar in size to what is currently out there. Looking at the teensy3.2 with teensysaber, this new comer or might even go a little cheaper and get this flight controller (STM32F3 & IMU & SPI Flash) that includes 6x MOSFETs (for brushed motors, which can also be used for PWM control of leds. All I would need to add is the audio amp and possibly swap the flash or add an SDcard.

Personally, I would have Tim drill the blade retention screw. They do a great job of getting it perfectly centered, etc. For the covertec, just use the screw they recommend in the store -- it fits perfectly.

As far as what you have listed there, it should work in terms of space -- recharge port and all. Check out madcows video on chassis building and you will see the recharge, battery and board fit well inside a standard 7" hilt. The issue will be to put the switches up high enough to give around 5" to the battery, recharge, speaker (if you are using the store's chassis discs/etc.).

I use 8-32 for blade retention and LED retention. That is fairly common, but some are also using 6-32. 6 of one, half dozen of the other. Missed that question.