First time builder parts check

Hello! Ok, I think I’ve got everything for my first full build, so far all I’ve done saber wise is replace a speaker. As such I’d love if people would give my parts list a once over and tell me if I’ve forgotten anything for my proffieboard neopixel build.

First: The non-TCSS parts
-Proffieboard
-3D printed MSHV2 chassis. Meant for Prizm, but should be golden
-26 AWG wire

Then the TCSS stuff:
-MHSV2 hilt components (pommel, insert, o ring, extension, double male adapter, choke, extension, blade holder)
-Millwork for two 12mm AV switches, 2 blade holder set screws
-set screws
-3W 20mm speaker
-Switchcraft 2.1mm power Jack (internal install)
-3.7-14.8v smart charger with plug adapter
-18650 3.7v 3400mAh battery
-12mm blue ring switch
-12mm red ring switch
-20mA DynaOhm variable resistor x2 for switches
-1” Neopixel hilt side adapter V2
-Pre-soldered Neopixel PCB connector and 11 pin set
-1” thick walled Neopixel blade adapter
-330 Ohm SMD 0630 resistor for Neopixel connector
-SK6812 144 LED strip x2
-foam tube for 1” thick tubes V2
-1” thick walled trans white polyc tube

And finally, parts that weren’t in stock I’ll have to get before using the saber:
-1” thick wall Neopixel blade tip.

That’s a lot, but does it look like I’m missing anything? Any input is appreciated!

Thank you!

Looks generally good, and if you get a post from an expert, forget my input, but being newer to building sabers, her are a few thoughts...26 awg is good for battery lines but a bit thick for others and will make your internals a bit more crammed. I went to 30 awg mil spec/high temp for the lower amp connections. You will want lots of heat shrink as well...and make sure to have cooper braid as you will certainly have solder do overs as you get rolling. I got helping hands out of the gate based on Madcows videos. The dynaohms are easy, but check the forum for posts on using much smaller resistors, and use the resistance calculator on TCSS early and often...order most of the resistors in stock as they are cheap and better to have on hand then wit for, or use the wrong ones based on impatience. Lastly, watch as many videos as you can before starting...I was impatient and needed to redo my first build three times after I learned more. Madcow has tons of exceptional videos (follow tcss and GCS on YouTube) and while I did build a Graflex, watching the let’s build a Graflex series will help you with any build. Good luck!

You’re in good shape. You’ll DEFINITELY need the 26 gauge wire for a neopixel build. Many tend to recommend 24 gauge for Neopixels. Scott is basing his experience off of in hilt Tri-Crees as opposed to Neopixel builds, which need a thinker gauge to handle the required amperage. The gauge of wire shouldn’t be an issue for you if you plan well, and are decent at soldering.

Thanks for the responses! I did forget to mention I have a ton of heat shrink in various sizes, but that’s definitely god advice! I’ve also got helping hands and braid with my soldering supplies. It’s been a while since I’ve done anything with circuit boards so I’ll be practicing on some stuff before touching the proffie. That’s good advice on the resistors, but I think I’ll be good for this build. The only thing going in one 4” extension is the two switches with resistors and the wires headed up to the emitter. My chassis will reside in a separate 6” extension.

So I’ll be safe using the 26 for everything Forgetful? Should I go to 24 for Battery minus? Also, the wa I’m looking at the diagram, will I have 3 wires coming from the minus leg of my recharge port? One to each of the 3 board pads? Or are the pads just bridged?

Using the configuratior schematic from https://fredrik.hubbe.net/lightsaber/v4/

Thanks again!

I don’t deal with those boards. But based on that diagram, I’d personally split the (-) wire into 3 once you leave the recharge port, but thats just me.

Seems like the safest option, thanks!