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Feels great in hand!
Um, was so excited earlier that forgot about settings for the pc. My wife has the laptop at her moms until friday. :(
I guess i could solder iy all up at least? Got half my chassis stuff too. Just need one or two disc style two, more threaded 4-40 rod. Kinda want to wait for that so i can build on it, instead of dealing with pre-wired rats nest. Maybe just a pic of the bubble card tonight.
Sorry to disappoint!
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It's also the first time I've seen the 4" fluted and I like it too! I am also awaiting the updated pictures that you mentioned with the new olive oil bake. I've never heard of this before and don't know what the effects are on the copper/brass sink tube.
Not too shabby so far! Looking forward to updates!
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How does this look?
Sorry, didnt know my phone took pics this uh, poorly.
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._8240316_n.jpg
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._2949178_n.jpg
I think the shroud is too long past the blade holder? Might need to revise that. Also considering aluminumblack weathering of the hilt between the switchbox/clamp and shroud. Just not sure about it coming off on my hand since i spin it at the choke.
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I think it looks great!!! (need to re-design my next saber to use the fluted part on mine...oh did I type that out loud...lol):oops:
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After you get the aluminum black weathering done the way you like it, apply a coat of clear coat and then bake it. It'll keep your weathering from wearing off on your hands. If you haven't done so already, you can do the same on your olive oil baked parts as well.
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Or... copper tape on the small od of the choke, an the tip of the blade holder? Example of copper tape seen on coppertop 1.2 in first post.
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looks good would clearcoat and then bake to keep the look
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Is it just me or did the oil+bake make the copper look more like tin? Did it really lighten it that much? As a physicist and not a chemist, are there other things that can be done to lighten the copper even more than that? Will it only do this to the copper itself? I suppose all the chrome would have to be peeled off?
Sorry, you've gotten me completely intrigued! Well done on your saber, though, and with the look of the shroud, the weathering on the aluminum will make it even better, imho!
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Sorry to confuse, cap. Its made of brass so it actually darkened in places. Thats why im considering copper tape since its confusing to name it coppertop without any copper on it! lol
Jin, thanks for reminding me, i should flat clear my grip section and bake it as i dont really want that part to weather! I think im going to pass on the aluminum black this time. Want to let the rest weathr naturally from handling.
Thanks for all the great feedback, everyone! I need to order some stuff tomorrow so i can start wiring up the pc!
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BUMP FOR UPDATE!
okay i didnt snap any pics yet, but i FINALLY started on the bubble strip buttons.
drilled out two bubbles (one on either end, second from the last bubble) on a card, and dremeled a couple of buttons out of another.
man its a PITA to get the bubbles nice and round!
also got a TCSS recharge port to fit SIDEWAYS inside the box! you dont want to know how hard that was... involved lots of finger crossing, removal of material inside the box, and lopping about half the threads off the port itself. now i just need to either find an actual graflex lever, or maybe a "bent nail" lever, or just fab one myself.
that way i can make a nice looking kill key.
so yeah, i owe you all some pics. as soon as i am done scratching my head on how to mount the tactiles under the bubbles, while still being able to slide the card on the box.
oh and i need to order a PC 1.6 with RICE, and figure out the port location for that. (using my PC-U 1.5 in my starkiller)
also, looking at the earlier pics, i might sand off the olive bake. looks better in "AFBB" style, and then let it weather naturally.
and i think i will run a LEDengin amber, maybe with FoC. still working out internal chasis too.