Graflex 2.5 set screw questions

I have a couple questions regarding the Graflex 2.5 kit when it comes to set screws:

Question 1: Is this hole for a chassis set screw? I ordered some 8-32 x 1/8" set screws from TCSS and tried one in the hole, but it was having some difficulty so I stopped pretty early on - I didn't want to damage anything permanently before I knew. Is this the right sized screw or is some resistance expected?
https://i.imgur.com/tncbQWY.jpg

Question 2: It looks like this little channel is for running wires through, is that correct? I have it shown here with the 3D printed chassis I'm using for my Neopixel build. If so, that'd be great because I would love to run the wires on the outside rather than trying to fit the larger AWG wires required for Neopixel through the chassis.
https://i.imgur.com/3c4kQFp.jpg

Question 3: Are these channels supposed to be lined up, or does it not matter?
https://i.imgur.com/9oSSaBc.jpg

Question 4: Is there a video or tutorial that shows installing a Neopixel hilt-side adapter into a kit? I saw Tim's video on wiring the PCB with the little resistor and setting up the blade, but I didn't see anything about actually putting the hilt side together. I know, I know, I'm probably being dumb here because you'd think "just put it in, get a set screw on it, a hole for the wires and run them along that wire channel from Question 2..." just this is my first build and I'm trying to be careful and "measure twice, cut once" so to speak.

I apologize if these are answered already somewhere else. I did try to use the search function and read the tutorial stuff, but I didn't find these same questions. If they are already answered, please be so kind as to point me in the direction.

Fun, but challenging first build for sure (I did the same one for my second build!)

I believe that I did use an 8/32 set screw, and I used that hole to secure the chassis to the top inner part of the hilt, as you are looking to do. If the hole is somehow tapped smaller, it would likely be a 6/32...could also just be the angle or some burrs from the tapping job.

Those channels are for wires, but I think primarily if you are using the slide switch or red button...I used the clamp card so didn’t need those.

The neo hilt side is pretty straight forward but it’s a great idea to watch a video...I watched while I was doing it for my first several builds, but haven’t seen a video on that specific part. I have seen a Dmitry shtok video on soldering they pins to the board properly...I bet Tom T or Shamino have the tutorial you are looking for. Or maybe Rob from TCSS.

Quick search...Rob/TCSS look to have a video for blade wiring. Tom T will probably see this as well but I know I was looking for quick answers when I was doing the first builds. He did a recent video of the hilt side adapter...this should help, and he explains things well. https://youtu.be/lnW3cXzc2p8

Thank you scott! I will check that out!

2 more quick tips. Grab a tap kit...I think I got my first one (for saber building) from TCSS. They can be used to clean up a poor initial tap. For this application, you really need a secure hold, not perfect for lots of in and out.

Second, next time you order from TCSS, grab lots of grub screws in different threads and lengths. They are cheep and always great to ensure you have all the options on hand (ditto for resistors.)

Hey This youtube series goes into detail on how to build a Graflex including explaining all the sizes of setscrews and detailing the mods you need to make to the hilt itself. This series came out before the Neopixel craze but in combination with Tom T's video you should be fine.

The Let's Make a Graflex series https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K67v...YrOJA_fYW4Do59

That series helped me a ton too...I just think he went a little to heavy with the T6000...I cringed during the glue application!

I just finished my 2.5 hilt this week, and I had similar questions.

1. The set screw holding the chassis in place is a 6-32. I was able to find some at a hardware store.

2. Yes, you use that channel to run wires through. For my build, I had a power and aux switch in the clamp, as well as another power switch using the red button beneath the bunny ears. I wired them up such that going through the inner tube's channel were 3 wires: Power (the positive from the two different power switches were joined into one), Aux, and a combined ground for all 3 switches.

3. I did not line up the black blade holder channel with the inner tube channel on mine. I lined up the chassis channel/hole and inner tube channel, as you did in your second picture, but I wanted that channel to be placed right beneath the clamp. This made it possible for the wires from the clamp switches to fit without being crushed. So for me, if the saber is lying flat, pointed away from me, with the bunny ears facing up, I have the clamp facing to the right, and lined up with it is the inner tube/chassis channel.

I think the black blade holder and the inner aluminum tube ended up being almost fully threaded in this orientation where the channels are 90 degrees apart. I used theadlock on the threads between the blade holder and aluminum channel, because I found that after wiring everything up and assembling the saber, when I unscrewed the bottom, instead of unscrewing the bottom from the inner tube, it actually unscrewed the inner tube from the blade holder, and thus broke my wires running up to the red button. Using threadlock secured the inner tube to the black blade holder, which itself is secured to the outer shell. Then I was able to unscrew the bottom from the inner tube without rotating the inner tube itself (make sure to grease these threads).

4. For the Neopixel adapter, I got the 7/8" adapter from TCSS, wired it up, and placed it in the black blade holder. In my setup, I am using the "glass eye" provided with the kit as the retention screw to hold the Neopixel adapter in place on the side opposite to the bunny ears. To assemble it, I just had the adapter sitting near the top of the black blade holder with the wires fed down through the tube, and once I mounted the blade holder to the outer shell, I could then push it down with my finger, looking through the hole that the retention screw would go through to make sure it was in the right place. When it was, I screwed in the glass eye. I am also replacing the screw that sits above that glass eye with a longer one which will be used for blade retention. It will be a more shallow blade holder than I've used before, and I don't actually have my blade yet so I can't speak to how well it holds up, but that at least is my current plan. This way I didn't have to modify the kit at all (aside from using a Dremel on the clamp to allow tightening and loosening as described in the Let's Build a Graflex series).